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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Mariáš
Right of the "Prstoklad" route, diagonally right to the edge and along it over the bolt… Rock Climbing
4
Mariáš
From the plateau wall, a crack to the left and an overhang to the crack. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Mariáš
Up the plateau wall to the ledge, through the hole to the bolt and along the overhanging… Rock Climbing
7
Mariáš
*** CAUTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the bolts may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing
9
Mariáš
To the right of the route "Healthy Nutrition..." up the overhanging wall, higher up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mariáš
From the N edge, right into the NW wall. Along the cracks up to hourglasses and further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mariáš
From the NE crack into a spacious hollow. Left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Mariáš
Up the overhanging wall from the W along a crack to the 1st ring. Straight into a large… Rock Climbing
8
Mariáš
From the right part of the NE wall, along the crack and up to hourglasses. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
7
Mariáš
From the ledge below the summit, up the crack directly over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Mariáš
Up the S wall diagonally left to the ring. From the left above it and along the groove… Rock Climbing
6
Mariáš
From the cave in the valley wall, up the right edge, or directly to the corner crack and… Rock Climbing
7
Mariáš
From the W, up the crack over a ring to a ledge and right to the summit. (First ascent… Rock Climbing
3
Mariáš
From the SE, up the wall to the crack and through it (or left up the wall) to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Vánoční
Up the wall below the abseil point over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Vánoční
Up the wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vánoční
Up the edge to the right of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vánoční
From the SE, up the chimney to its widening. Step across into the SE wall and to the… Rock Climbing
7
Vánoční
Up the W wall to the ring. Straight onto the receding smooth slab (hourglasses) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vánoční
From the widening of the chimney, traverse to the NW onto a sloping ledge. Then along it… Rock Climbing
9
Vánoční
Up the wall to the ledge and up to the 1st ring. Right to the edge and over 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vánoční
Up the blunt edge over the overhang to a ledge, from the right to the ring and left along… Rock Climbing
6
Dívčí
Diagonally left to the edge, along it to the ring and right up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Dívčí
From the left, traverse to the edge and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Dívčí
Through the middle of the small pillar to the left of "N. c." Rock Climbing
6-
Dívčí
To the left of "Left route" up the face to the left to the ring and directly over the… Rock Climbing
4
Dívčí
Along a narrow crack near the edge to the bench. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dívčí
From the N edge up the face to a ledge in the NW face. From there through the middle of… Rock Climbing
6-
Dívčí
Up the S edge of the pillar to the ring. Slightly right up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dívčí
Through the middle of the face to the ledge, up the face to the ring and over the… Rock Climbing

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