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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Trio
From the cave "N. c." via a narrow tunnel to the platform with a pine tree. Rock Climbing
5
Trio
Via a crack from the W to the platform with a pine tree. Via the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Trio
*** ATTENTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
7
Trio
Start on the right side of the N corner. Via a finely structured small wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing
6
Trio
From the N corner via the chimney up to the ledge in the NE face. Up to the crack and… Rock Climbing
6-
Trio
*** ATTENTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
5
Trio
In the right part of the SW face up into the hole. From there along the ledges to the… Rock Climbing
7
Trio
*** ATTENTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
4
Trio
From the S corner into the cave. Via the inner chimney to the W summit, step over to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Trio
From the SE, from the slope, via a crack to the ledge. Directly into the hole and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Maják
From the wide ledge "From the Chimney" through the window to the S side. Along the window… Rock Climbing
6
Maják
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Maják
From the right to the edge and along it to the wide ledge "From the Chimney". Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Maják
Directly up the wall to the edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Maják
Through the corner of "NW wall" about 4m, traverse left along a ledge to a small pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Maják
In the side wall of the pillar via the right crack, higher up by the edge (two rings) to… Rock Climbing
6
Maják
S corner to the pillar below the left NW face. Through the middle of the wall (circle). Rock Climbing
7
Maják
In the right half of the NE face in the fall line of a massive window, first through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Maják
T variant", to the right and to the 1st circle of "Ring". Directly through the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Maják
Through the corner to a stepped bench. Along it to the left and higher up to the right… Rock Climbing
6
Maják
*** WARNING ***In some of Petr Prachtel's routes, the circles may be of questionable… Rock Climbing
6-
Maják
Through the crack to the end to the circle, traverse left into "Gothic Edge" and follow… Rock Climbing
6-
Maják
From the 1st circle of "Golf Stream" directly through the wall (hourglass) to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Maják
Through a crack over an overhang and through the wall to the circle. From the left… Rock Climbing
6-
Maják
To the right of the edge via a small pillar to a ledge and from the right onto a shelf.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Maják
From the right through the wall over two circles to the 2nd circle of "Haleš Wall" and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Maják
From the fore-summit of "Mézl Path" by building to the circle, briefly upwards and right… Rock Climbing
8
Maják
Through the crack into the hole. Via the small pillar to the 1st circle. Further along… Rock Climbing
6-
Maják
Through the chimney and crack to the fore-summit and traverse right to the circle (also… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Maják
Through the middle of the valley wall along a crack upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing

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