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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
1
Velbloudice
From the north to the W fore-peak and n.v.
5
Velbloud
From the fore-peak at the East face, traverse right to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Velbloud
Corner crack to the ledge, left to the edge (ring) and along it to the shelf and SE face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velbloud
Up the face to the first ring, higher via a crack over the second ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Velbloud
Left part of the north face by climbing onto a ledge and then left via a small crack over… Rock Climbing
5
Velbloud
From the north over the ledge left around the edge into the crack, higher over the… Rock Climbing
6
Velbloud
Left part of the west face over a ring. Rock Climbing
6
Velbloud
Southwest edge upwards and right into the ledge (ring). Directly into the shallow groove… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Velbloud
In the right part of the north face through a crack and up the face to the ring, then… Rock Climbing
2
Velbloud
From the west via a wide crack widening into a chimney. Rock Climbing
6
Velbloud
By opposition onto the West edge and along the ledge in the SW face n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velbloud
Via the chimney of the Old Way (St. c.) to the balcony and right up the slanted face n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velbloud
To the right, a short section of the south face via a small chimney to the right onto the… Rock Climbing
8
Velbloud
Left part of the south face to the ring, then left, higher directly upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Velbloud
Through the middle of the south face diagonally right via a crack to the Old Way. Rock Climbing
2
Velbloud
From the south via a system of chimneys. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bratrská věž
From the edge from the south. Rock Climbing
2
Bratrská věž
Via the chimney to the small tower in the north face and via the Northwest Crack route. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bratrská věž
Přeskok
Bratrská věž
From the east from the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Bratrská věž
Up the center of the north face via a small crack to a receding ledge, via a small corner… Rock Climbing
6
Bratrská věž
From the north diagonally right along the ledge over the pinnacle to the bench, from… Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
From the boulder over the overhang and via a wide crack. Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
Via the West Central Crack route, by the crack and higher up the face. Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
Via a crack to the small tower in the north face, right onto the northeast edge and along… Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
7
Bratrská věž
Left of the west route via a hollow and a crack, right into the chimney and over the… Rock Climbing
4
Bratrská věž
5
Bratrská věž
From the boulder from the west via a crack, higher up via the right crack and chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž

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