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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
3
Ostruha
Up the center of the NE face. Rock Climbing
3
Zastrčená
Up the center of the NE face of the smaller tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zastrčená
In the left part of the SW face to the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zastrčená
In the NE face to the left and to the ring, left and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zastrčená
Up the NE face diagonally right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zastrčená
From SE 5m by stemming and along the wall with a short notch (loop) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zastrčená
Left part of the SW face via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zastrčená
Overhanging wall to the right of "N. c." to the hourglass. Under the overhang right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Nůž
From NE along the crack to the ledge, left and over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Tulačka
From SW via the corner to the ring and along the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tulačka
From the SW edge with a long step into the wall and up to the ring. Along the wall… Rock Climbing
2
Dvoják
In the right part of the north wall over the overhang and N. c. " to the summit." Rock Climbing
2
Dvoják
Along the gully in the center of the north wall over the overhang and left to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Dvoják
Along the left part of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Srnčí
Rock Climbing
2
Dvoják
In the right part of the south wall to the "beak" and directly to the summit." Rock Climbing
4
Srnčí
Edge to the left of the valley chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Srnčí
Rock Climbing
2
Srnčí
Along the chimney from the east or west. Rock Climbing
3
Srnčí
Narrow wall to the right of the plateau chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Srnčí
Wall to the left of N. c. " diagonally left to the summit." Rock Climbing
3
Srnčí
Along the crack in the SW wall, right and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Malá hradba
Rock Climbing
2
Malá hradba
Rock Climbing
7
Malá hradba
Overhanging crack over the ring, left and along another crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Malá hradba
Along the crack from the north to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malá hradba
Center of the overhanging wall (loop) to the ring and the left part of the wall (on the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kozel
Along the western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malá hradba
From the valley along the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Malá hradba
Overhanging wall diagonally to the right to the ring, crack (loop) and along overgrown… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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