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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4+
Bubeníček
By the crack in the middle of the valley wall, over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Bumbrlíček
In the right part of the valley wall, by crack to the end (slings), traverse left under… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bumbrlíček
Along the short plateau crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Princeznička
By chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Princeznička
By corner crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Princeznička
By the edge to a small balcony and left along the edge, over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Faraon
In the right part of the valley wall along the small chimney to the ring. Pull-up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Faraon
Left valley edge to the balcony and briefly to the foot of the rock. Through the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Princeznička
In the left part of the side wall to the ledge (bolt). Lift to further ledges and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Princeznička
From the valley through a crack to the balcony and through a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Flamendr
Rock Climbing
4+
Jakubice
In the upper wall on the right to the edge and the ledge. Through a corner or crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Flamendr
Right valley edge over a bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Smrkový masiv
Straight from the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Madlenka
From the valley, from the boulder to the slab and diagonally left across the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Madlenka
To the right of "Abnormal Route", a short crack to the edge of the slab and along it to… Rock Climbing
5
Madlenka
Up the wall over the handle, difficult to the right to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Madlenka
From the valley, from the boulder to the slab and along its right side to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
2
Madlenka
Rock Climbing
4
Madlenka
From the uphill side, a crack running to the left to its end. Rock Climbing
2
Madlenka
Rock Climbing
3
Madlenka
In the left part of the uphill wall. Rock Climbing
3
Čajovna
Corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čajovna
Wide chimney (hourglass) to a ledge and a step over to a ring. Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kašpar
Near the left downhill edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Kašpar
Left part of the wall along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Penzista
Along the edge of the wall to a hole (hook). Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kuželka
In the right part of the downhill wall, over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kuželka
Briefly through a chimney and left into the wall to a ring. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kuželka
In the left part of the downhill wall, diagonally right along a wide, running crack into… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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