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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Lokomotiva
Short NW wall via pockets to the fore-summit and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lokomotiva
Along the gully and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lokomotiva
From the S side by corner crack to the fore-rock and along a short edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Lokomotiva
By crack. Rock Climbing
3
Lokomotiva
Fifth edge to the fore-rock and NC to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Lokomotiva
Up the wall along honeycombs to the ring and from the left to the flake. Over the ledge… Rock Climbing
4
Lokomotiva
Small corner to the right of the natural line (NC) to the fore-rock and NC to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lokomotiva
Along the edge over honeycombs to the ring. Lift from the hole into the crack and onto… Rock Climbing
6-
Lokomotiva
In the right part of the NE wall to the ring and by small falconet and wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6
Lilie
Middle of the valley wall into the chimney and through it over a wedged boulder to the… Rock Climbing
6
Lilie
To the right of the inner chimney by traverse on an inclined surface over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lilie
From the SE fore-rock, up the wall from the right into the hole and to the ring. Directly… Rock Climbing
7
Lilie
Middle of the wall to the right edge of the hole and right to the ring. Through the… Rock Climbing
7
Lilie
From the saddle traverse right into the corner. Over the hole to the ring and by gully to… Rock Climbing
6
Lehátko
By crack (loop) to the 1st ring, by small crack and along the edge to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lehátko
By crack in the right part of the wall and higher to the left to the ring. By crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lehátko
From the right along an斜裂縫斜crack to the left into a crack (ring). By crack (knots)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lehátko
Small wall along two small cracks over the ring to the ring of the Tour de Sobotka route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lehátko
Slab to the ledge and directly to the 1st ring. Over the small shelf and by small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lehátko
Over the overhang across the ring to the 1st ring of Štafet (Relay). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lehátko
From the corner traverse right along the ledge to the edge (1st ring). Behind the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kýl
In the left part of the wall (between cracks) along overhanging fissures directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kýl
Through the chimney to the ring. To the right onto the ledge (hourglass) and with an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lampión
To the left of the crack, initially by an overhanging edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kýl
Through the chimney to the ring and higher by a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kýl
By wider crack to the ramp in the left side wall and along it to the ring. By small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kvočna
Briefly through the small chimney and behind the boulder to the right. Along artificial… Rock Climbing
3
Kvočna
From the valley by crack to the balcony and higher NC to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Květináč
To the left of the chimney by a notch and wall to the Bh (bolt hanger), up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Květináč
In the middle of the wall to the right of the chimney, up the wall in the pillar to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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