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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Amerika
Via a crack and a small pillar in the corner (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Amerika
From the balcony in the left part of the valley wall, up the wall diagonally right to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Amerika
To the right of the valley edge to the 1st ring, through a crack to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Amerika
In the left part of the upper wall, via a small pillar to the 1st ring. Up the wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
8-/8
Amerika
In the right part of the left valley wall (left of the wide corner), through a crack to… Rock Climbing
8
Amerika
Via the small pillar crack of the Sloní ucho route to the grassy ledge. From there, up… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Amerika
In the right part of the left side wall, up the wall to a ledge, along it to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Amerika
In the left part of the side wall (must be well slung!), through small pillar cracks and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Amerika
Through a narrow corner chimney over a balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Amerika
In the middle of the first left side wall, directly over the overhang and crack via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Amerika
Up the wall and a hollow-sounding small pillar to the ring. Up the wall and higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Amerika
Along the left valley edge to the 1st ring. Up the wall to a ledge, right to the center… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Amerika
In the middle of the valley wall, directly to the terrace into the niche. Briefly via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Amerika
Along the right edge into a small corner, through it (sling) and a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Amerika
To the left of the 'Veselý zpěv mrchožroutů' route, to the 1st ring via the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Amerika
Following the Four Rumochs route over the 1st ring into the hole. Traverse right and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Amerika
Following the Four Rumochs route over the 1st ring to the ledge. To the left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Amerika
To the right of the Prstomlejn route, up the wall and through a crack to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Boule
From the upper side via a small chimney to the base below the NW face. Via a slanting… Rock Climbing
4
Boule
From the ledge of "Second Route", left onto the S edge, up it and via a notch to the… Rock Climbing
4
Boule
From the "N. c." base, right into the small crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Boule
From the ledge of "Second Route", up the middle of the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Boule
From the upper side via a small corner and right onto the ledge in the SE face. Right… Rock Climbing
5
Zapomenutá
From the right into the crack in the NW face. Up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zapomenutá
Along the right valley edge over an hourglass and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zapomenutá
To the right of "N. c." up the wall along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Zapomenutá
Up the middle of the valley wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zapomenutá
Up the wall along the shallow corner to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Zapomenutá
Up the small upper wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Monolit
From the N edge diagonally left to the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing

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