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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7-/7
Korál
Directly up the wall, or from the left to the ring, diagonally left to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Korál
Through the left part of the wall directly to the ring and via the rib/arete to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Korál
From the left over the ledge to the ring, left to the edge and along it (hourglass). Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Korál
To the right of the pine tree into the ledge, left to the hourglass and up to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Korál
*** ATTENTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Korál
To the right of the route "Coral Reef" via an overhanging small crack and right to the… Rock Climbing
7
Loupák
From the south, two meters from the edge via a crack and rib to the ring, left into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Palice
Via the "Chimney" or "Narrow Chimney" route to the balcony into the saddle between… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Palice
Along the crack, higher up the wall over the ring into the gully and up it to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Palice
Up the pillar over 3 rings to the ledge. Right to the tree and up the crack, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Palice
Up the broken crack to the 1st ring. Left over the overhang to the 2nd ring, right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Palice
From the corner right to the edge and up the small crack over the ring, higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Paličák
Up the wall to the gully running to the right and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Palice
Briefly up the corner crack, right behind the edge and slightly left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Palice
Up the wall over 2 rings under the overhang, right and along the edge over the 3rd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Palice
Up the middle of the overhanging wall over two rings to the ledge and straight up. Rock Climbing
7
Paličák
Directly up the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Paličák
To the right of the "Smooth Way" over the overhang and ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Paličák
Up the wall and by small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Paličák
Right of the "V route" via an overhanging small wall section over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Panny
Via a small corner to the ring, right beyond the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Panny
From the edge traverse to the crack in the middle of the wall and along it (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
8
Panny
From the edge to the right, via a small wall section to a small pinnacle and by that to… Rock Climbing
6-
Panny
Along the shelf traverse, or more difficult directly under the overhang. Right over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Panny
Up the wall over the ring to the clock holds and over the overhang (clock holds) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Panny
Along the North Edge directly to the 1st ring of the route "North Edge" (Cerman's route). Rock Climbing
8
Panny
From the edge a long traverse right into a short corner. Through it to the ledge,… Rock Climbing
8
Panny
Up the narrow wall (clock holds) to the 1st ring. By small pinnacle to the ledge, right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Panny
Up the overhanging wall to the crack and along it to the 1st ring. Directly up (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing
?
Panny
Right of the route "The Oldest Profession", 3 rings. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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