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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Trpaslík
From the fore-rock, traverse left behind the edge to the exit of the "Údolní stěny" … Rock Climbing
6
Trpaslík
Over the overhang and short cracks to the hole, right along the ledge and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
3
Trpaslík
Through the chimney to the fore-rock and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Smutná
Along the edge and via the small falcon (feature) to the ledge, then left to the fore… Rock Climbing
6
Smutná
Up the narrow wall over the hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Smutná
Through the chimney to the fore-rock and up the short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Křemenová
From the south in the left part of the wall, from the left via a crack to the block.… Rock Climbing
6
Smutná
Over the overhang diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Smutná
From the valley through the chimney to the fore-rock and 'N. c.' (Normal Route) to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Křemenová
From the traverse of "Blues stavěče kuželek" (Blues of the Bowling Pin Setter) directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Křemenová
Up the small crack to the ring, left along the small falcon (feature) into the hole … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Křemenová
Up the "Západní spára" (Western Crack) and traverse right to the 1st ring of the Rorejsí… Rock Climbing
6
Křemenová
Up the corner and through the crack (ring) to the summit. (First ascent with aid.) Rock Climbing
6
Křemenová
From the ledge of the "Západní spáry" (Western Crack), diagonally left up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing
6
Křemenová
Up the center of the NE wall along the small falcon (feature) to the ring. Up into the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Křemenová
(The route originally climbed with aid from the 1st ring was cancelled by VK). Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Křemenová
Along the edge, higher up the wall over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Křemenová
From the 1st ring of "Snu Ládi Mejsnara" (Láďa Mejsnar's Dream) slightly right and up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Křemenová
Along the edge over the overhang to the 1st ring. Over two holes to the 2nd ring. (With… Rock Climbing
?
Křemenová
To the right of the "Stínová" (Shadow) path, ring. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Křemenová
Along the "Bortelova cesta" (Bortel's Path) to the ring and straight up the wall, ring. Rock Climbing
8
Křemenová
Up the wall directly to the ring, right along the small falcon (feature) to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
8
Křemenová
In the corner under the overhang and right to the 1st ring. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Křemenová
Along the edge to the ring and up the wall (clock) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Křemenová
From the edge diagonally left to the ring. Right into the hole (clock), right to the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Křemenová
Up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Křemenová
To the right of "Cesty k slunci" (Path to the Sun), ring. Rock Climbing
6
Křemenová
From the clock above the ring of the "Plesnivé cesty" (Moldy Path), diagonally left up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Křemenová
*** WARNING *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing
5
Křemenová
Through the crack under the overhang, left, 3m up the chimney, back right, and again… Rock Climbing

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