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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Pes
From the SW through the wide chimney, higher up the left part of the south face along the… Rock Climbing
4
Pes
To the left along the southeast edge. Rock Climbing
5
Liška
Jump from the block to the smooth right south face and up the small crack.
3
Liška
Along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Pes
Through the right part of the south face. Rock Climbing
4
Liška
Along the east edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Liška
From the northeast edge, traverse into the north face to the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing
7
Opomenutá věž
Along the wall along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
7
Opomenutá věž
From the west or east through the chimney to the block. From there, traverse into the… Rock Climbing
5
Opomenutá věž
Along the southwest edge to the balcony and along the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Opomenutá věž
Up the south face to the shelf and from there along the NE edge to the balcony and to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
List
From M in the north, traverse/jump to the summit.
2
List
Through the chimney between the tower and M to the summit.
2
Opomenutá věž
Through the east crack to the ledge in the south face, right to the balcony and along the… Rock Climbing
4
Opomenutá věž
Through the south face to the ledge Rock Climbing
7-/7
List
Through the north face via 3 rings to the summit. A rappel anchor is located directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Konvalinka
Through the crack, higher up the edge. Rock Climbing
5
Konvalinka
Rock Climbing
6
Konvalinka
Through the center of the north face via the ring. Rock Climbing
2
Konvalinka
From the south from the massif. Rock Climbing
2
Konvalinka
From the east through the chimney and the south face. Rock Climbing
6
Říjnová věž
From the boulder, by standing over the overhang into the north face, diagonally left to… Rock Climbing
6-
Říjnová věž
Through the right part of the north face via the small pillar (sokolík) over the ring… Rock Climbing
7
Říjnová věž
Through the face directly below the summit steep section, diagonally right to the edge… Rock Climbing
5
Říjnová věž
Through the left part of the south face via the ring. Rock Climbing
6
Říjnová věž
Through the right part of the plateau face to the summit Rock Climbing
2
Říjnová věž
Through the crack and route in the east face. Rock Climbing
7
Říjnová věž
Through the center of the plateau face to the summit Rock Climbing
3
Perun
From the west traverse into the south face and through the chimney to the Old Route. Rock Climbing
7
Perun
Through the valley corner under the overhang, to the grassy balcony, higher up via the… Rock Climbing

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