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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Bobek
To the right of the valley edge via the rusty overhanging wall to the bolt and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Datel
Via the valley crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Datel
Through the chimney from Sýček. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Babka
Via a crack in the S wall of the right pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Tuctová stěna
In the left part of the SW wall over the ledge to the bolt. To the right to the pinnacle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bobek
From the NW edge along the ledge to the right and via a crack in the NW wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Bobek
In the left part of the SE wall via a corner to a ledge and up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bobek
From the ledge via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Bobek
From the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bobek
In the right part of the SE wall through holes to the ring. Up into the ledge, to the… Rock Climbing
6
Bob
Up the wall on the left valley edge (ring) to the ledge, over the overhang to another… Rock Climbing
3
Bobek
From the NW edge along the ledge to the left and up the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Bobek
By a friable overhanging wall diagonally to the right to the ring. Directly onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bob
From the block in the NW wall by an overthrow into the ledge and in it traverse right… Rock Climbing
2
Bob
From the left into the ledge and along the left side of the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Bob
Up the middle of the wall to the ring. Up the wall to the pinnacle, to the end of it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bob
Up the wall on the right valley edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Bob
On the right side of the SE edge through holes to the pinnacle, through it (ring) into… Rock Climbing
6
Bob
Up the middle of the wall past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bob
Up the NE edge to the right of the "Old Beech Blues" route over a bolt to a small ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bob
Up the wall and by a gully (plate) to the ledge and by the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Bob
From the N by a crack and up the wall below the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Truhla
In the left part of the SW wall with a long step to the ledge and a thrust right to the… Rock Climbing
6
Truhla
Up the middle of the N wall via ledges to a smooth corner (ring), through it to the left… Rock Climbing
4
Truhla
In the right part of the SW wall via a slab to a crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Truhla
From the E edge, on the E ledge right to the ring, up the wall to the crack and through… Rock Climbing
6
Truhla
Left of the route "1850 kJ" over an overhang to the ledge and up the wall (ring) via… Rock Climbing
6
Truhla
In the right part of the N wall via a crack to the ledge and right (ring) along the edge. Rock Climbing
2
Truhla
In the left part of the SW wall via artificial steps to the ridge and from there to the E… Rock Climbing
4
Strážce pokladu
Through the corner from the NW, or from the SE under the E edge and along its left side… Rock Climbing

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