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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Peklo
From the ring of "Myšák's Edge" directly over a ring into its crack. Rock Climbing
8
Peklo
Up the center of the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Peklo
Via the small corner to the fore-rock. Via the overhanging edge over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
7
Peklo
From NE via any corner and up the wall slightly left to the ring. Up under the overhang… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Peklo
From the boulder to the 1st ring and up the wall over the hole to the 2nd ring. Slightly… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Peklo
By stemming/chimneying, higher up the wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Peklo
Up the wall diagonally right (1st ring) into the chimney and up it over the 2nd ring to… Rock Climbing
6-
Peklo
Left of the indentation of the "Ancient Route" up the wall over the hole to the ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Peklo
Up the wall, initially overhanging, under the overhanging edge (hourglasses). Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Peklo
From SE to the highest point of the fore-rock. Left over the hole and via the crack,… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Konvalinka
N.C. " to the ring, right behind the edge and through the crack (protection) over the… Rock Climbing
6
Konvalinka
(First ascent with side protection). From the saddle into the center of the SE wall,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Konvalinka
From the fore-rock left to the ring and higher into the hole. Left behind the edge and to… Rock Climbing
6
Konvalinka
Short crack to the ledge below the overhang and higher along the edge to the ring. Into… Rock Climbing
9
Konvalinka
Right valley edge (hourglass) to the ring. From the right into the hole (hourglass) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Konvalinka
Up the wall over the hourglasses to the ring, up into the hole (hourglasses), directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Poupě
From the center of the W wall slightly left and back to the center of the wall (ring) and… Rock Climbing
6
Poupě
N.C. " shortly up and up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Poupě
Along the NE edge directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Poupě
In the N wall from the right diagonally left, higher directly to the ring. (With aid) to… Rock Climbing
8
Poupě
Right of "Ice Cream" via a small corner, higher up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Čapka
From W onto the boulder, step across into the wall, traverse right to the edge and along… Rock Climbing
4
Čapka
Up the wall below the abseil to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kulisák
From the left to the edge and over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čuník
From the boulder up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kulisák
Through the crack (loops) into the hole and right up to the ring. From the ring either… Rock Climbing
6
Maska
Overhanging brittle wall to the ring. Directly to the ledge, left to the hourglass and… Rock Climbing
7
Maska
To the right of the cave along the edge, higher up via the plinth to the ring of the … Rock Climbing
7
Maska
Via the "N. C." chimney to the white block, left into the crack and up it to the ring. 1… Rock Climbing
6-
Maska
Along the left edge over the hourglass and ring to the fore-summit. Freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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