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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Balkón
From the North from the gully via an opposition chimney to a balcony in the valley face … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Balkón
From the East via a chimney between the boulder and the tower into the slab. Easily up… Rock Climbing
4
Balkón
From the North via a short, wider crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Poustevník
Up the SW face via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Alenka
Up a side wall along a crack to a horizontal shelf and right to the edge. Along it via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Poustevník
Along the V-edge and higher up the SE face. Rock Climbing
5
Poustevník
From the upper side below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Poustevník
In the right half of the NE face diagonally right to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Nebožka
Along the South edge. Rock Climbing
3
Nebožka
With a crack. Rock Climbing
3
Nebožka
Along the West edge. Rock Climbing
3
Nebožka
In a crack. Rock Climbing
1
Čtyřčata
From the SE along a slanting boulder, then right into a chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Čtyřčata
Rock Climbing
2
Strašidlo
From the massif a step across to a (yet) unnamed tower and from there a jump to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
3
Čtyřčata
Via opposition and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Čtyřčata
From the valley corner up the face left to the edge (loop). Then along the edge via an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Strašidlo
Along the edge directly from below. Rock Climbing
7
Doutník
From the "N. c." balcony along the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Strašidlo
From the right to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strašidlo
Along the edge to a slanting shelf and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Strašidlo
From the center of the upper face slightly left through an oval hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Doutník
From the NW via a crack to the balcony and left along the edge to the 1st and 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
7
Doutník
Like "Smoking lounge" onto the balcony and along the left edge via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Doutník
Right in the upper face via an overhang to a shelf in the SE face. Up the face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Doutník
Up the valley face via three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Doutník
Along the left upper edge via a crack to a small balcony, up into a horizontal notch,… Rock Climbing
3
Stínová
From the upper side onto the shelf and straight or along the left or right edge. Rock Climbing
3
Laňka
Along the W edge, right and up the middle of the SW wall. Rock Climbing
7
Stínová
Along the northern edge. Rock Climbing

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