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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Vlk
From the N edge diagonally right to the small balcony in the SW face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vlk
From the passage between Vlk and Trojče by the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Karkulka
From the boulder, by the left part of the NE face under the overhanging notch to the… Rock Climbing
2
Karkulka
Up the middle of the SE face. Rock Climbing
4
Kostka
Rock Climbing
4
Kostka
Rock Climbing
3
Kostka
From the W fore-rock by the right part of the NW face. Rock Climbing
6
Kostka
Up the middle of the NE face, diagonally right to the ledge and over the overhang in the… Rock Climbing
5
Kostka
Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Rosnička
Rock Climbing
4
Kostka
Rock Climbing
6
Rosnička
Into the niche on the right side of the SW face, under the overhang, over it left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Rosnička
By opposition between the edge and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rosnička
From the passage to the NW edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rosnička
From the saddle between the tower and the edge along the right edge through a crack to… Rock Climbing
8
Barbucha
In the valley wall, a 4m corner and right to the 1st ring. Up the wall and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Barbucha
By the blunt SW edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Chrámová věž
Start from the right of the NW corner, diagonally left upwards into the center of the…
2
Chrámová věž
Via the plateau chimney to the summit... From the W edge diagonally left to the ring and… Rock Climbing
4
Chrámová věž
From the NE, up the crack at the N edge to the ring and up the crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
4
Chrámová věž
Left of the "Angel's Crack" up a small wall, through a hollow over a wedged block and a… Rock Climbing
3
Posed
Crack from the valley. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Molo
From the ledge above the stairs, right and up the crack to the balcony. Up a small wall… Rock Climbing
6
Molo
From the end of the staircase, up the center of the north face of the pillar, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá bašta
In the left part of the NE face, step over to the ledge, briefly left and through a… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Malá bašta
Up the NE face directly (two rings), higher slightly left and up the center of the wall… Rock Climbing
8
Malá bašta
Right of the route "Bastion" along the small cracks over a ring to a ledge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá bašta
From the saddle, a long traverse left into the valley wall. Up to the ring, over a small… Rock Climbing
6
Malá bašta
With the edge over the ring to the ring of the "Valley Route". Rock Climbing
6
Malá bašta
Right of the route "Rondel" along the edge over a ring to a ledge. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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