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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Hřebenová věž
Left of the North Face route, up the wall to the ring and slightly left over the rounded… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Hřebenová věž
Right of Lišejníková (Lichenous) to the ring over a mossy bulge and by the normal route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Hřebenová věž
In the south face in the fall line of the corner, short wall into a gully, through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7
Hřebenová věž
Below the south chimney 3 meters up to a ledge, diagonally left to the center of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Hřebenová věž
Fixed belay
3
Hřebenová věž
Through the chimney in the center of the south face. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2
Hřebenová věž
From the west along the ledge onto a shelf into the south face and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall +1
4
Hřebenová věž
Short crack in the south face 2 meters up and diagonally right on a slab to the ridge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Hřebenová věž
Crack and wall in the south face to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Hřebenová věž
Through the center of the slab into the gully (ring), along it and higher up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Hřebenová věž
Inclined wall over two rings and a balcony to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Hřebenová věž
To the left of the Uncertain Route, along the rounded edge over the ring into the slab… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Hřebenová věž
Through the north wall to the ring and directly up the wall into the crack (2nd ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Hřebenová věž
To the left of the Valley Gully route, up the wall over a ring to the ledge, over steps… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hřebenová věž
In the south wall to the left of the east edge, up the wall of the Drilled Corner (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8
Hřebenová věž
To the left of the north wall, entry into the 1st ring under the overhanging bulge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Hřebenová věž
In the north wall, 3 meters to the right of the edge, up the wall over the ring into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hřebenová věž
Directly over the Great Rounded Bulge via a ring into the center of the pillar and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hřebenová věž
From the east over the overhang to the ring and along the edge directly onto the ridge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7
Hřebenová věž
From the ring to the right along the cut to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Hřebenová věž
Through the left part of the plateau's north wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Hřebenová věž
In the fall line of the balcony, up the steps into the recess (ring), left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Hřebenová věž
From the ring under the overhang, left into the south wall. Through the cut to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Hřebenová věž
Fixed belay
2
Hřebenová věž
Two meters to the left of the northwest edge, up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall +1
5+
Hřebenová věž
Fixed belay
6
Hřebenová věž
Through the center of the west wall directly or by hand traversing from the left edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Jehlan
Through the left part of the slab via crystals to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hřebenová věž
Below the southwest edge through a crack to the ledge and further through a crack along… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall +1
6-
Hřebenová věž
Up the wall via holes to the rounded bulge to the 1st ring, directly up the slab to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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