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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Ježibaba
Through the crack to the right of the corner to the ring, then directly over the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Jezdec
By jumping from Sova (Owl). Rock Climbing
7
Jezdec
SE corner along two cracks or through the chimney between the tower and the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jezdec
From the wedged boulder along a shallow gully to the smooth edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-/6
Ježibaba
Through the middle of the pillar directly over 2 rings to the balcony to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jeníček
To the right of the new route, up the small pillar over the ring to the summit. Jumps… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Jeníček
Eastern edge (bolt) into the hole and to the ring. Up the wall over the 2nd bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Jeníček
From the plateau via an overhanging wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Jeníček
Along the route 'Barvy podzimu' (Autumn Colors) to Bh. Diagonally right up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jeníček
From the hole traverse right to the small crack. Up to the bolt and through the widening… Rock Climbing
6
Jeníček
Blunt edge to the small balcony and to the ring. Slightly from the left to the rounded… Rock Climbing
2
Jeníček
Through the chimney from the pine tree. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Jeníček
Up the wall from the valley to the ledge to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jeníček
Through the chimney from the plateau side. Rock Climbing
4
Jeníček
Through a delicate corner, right along a sloping ledge to the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Jeníček
Through a narrow chimney to its end to the crack, traverse right in the holes to the ring… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Jeníček
Overhanging wall to the hourglass and directly to the ring. Slightly from the right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jeníček
Through the chimney and higher up the crack to the ring. Upwards and higher to the right… Rock Climbing
6
Jeníček
Overhanging wall along the edge and up it via 1 ring to the route ring 'Přípravka na… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Jeníček
Through a passage separating the tower and a short chimney. Rock Climbing
6-
Jeníček
To the right of the 'Šup do trouby' (Into the Oven) route, via an overhanging wall to K.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jeníček
Overhanging corner to the splinter and up it via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Houba
Up the wall to a ledge and over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Houba
From the left to the edge and along it to a ledge (bolt). Along the edge into a hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Houba
Left of the NW corner via a crack to the ring and a sloping slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Houba
Via the corner with trees to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Houba
Up the wall through the window to the ring. Via a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Herodes
From the gorge up the wall into a crack, through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Hlavička
Over the overhang into a crack and through it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hlídač
Through the crack to the ring and along the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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