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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7/7+
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Through the small crack and right to the ring. Up under the overhang, over it and easily… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Smítkova věž
Up the north face to the right of the "Victoria" route directly via six bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Up the wall into the chimney, up it and right to the ledge to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
From the 2nd ring to the ledge, right into a small crack and up it to the 3rd ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Through the gully under the overhang and traverse right to the ring. From the right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Myší masiv
Right part of the north face, from the ledge via wall 2Q, slightly right 3rd Q, up and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Myší masiv
From the ledge via a pillar over 2Q to the last Q of the route "Decomposition of Society"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Věž Milana Černého
Via the Karamora route to the 1st piton, from there left to the bolt, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Smítkova věž
From the edge up into the middle of the W face and along it past a bolt to the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Stará výcviková stěna
In the middle of the massif, to the right of the corner, up the wall directly to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Smítkova věž
(IN MEMORY OF CHÁRA) Along the northeast edge via two bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Centrální masiv
Freely to the fore-summit. Briefly right and over the overhang to the 1st ring; up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vokurka
By the wall and edge under the overhang, from the right to the ring. To the left through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Muezzin
From the upper side a short traverse along the ledge and by wall over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Malá kvočna
From the stream in the holes over the overhang (1st ring) and onto the sloping ramp to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Domino
In the valley wall to the clock ledge, and right to the edge. Behind the edge briefly a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vruboun posvátný
From the boulder, up the right crack to the ledge. Traverse left and up the pillar over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Párek
From the valley, left of the corner, straight up the wall over the small roof to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Frýdštejnská věž
Along the edge to the ring, right into the gully and along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Kružítko
From the valley via a crack or wall to the ledge under the ceiling. Then to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Bezděčínská věž
Left of the north edge, directly across the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pérko
Middle of the valley wall via the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jablonecká
Up the center of the E wall via the chimney to the ring, then into a crack and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vruboun posvátný
Briefly up the corner and left behind the edge to the 1st ring, up and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jablonecká
In the left part of the E wall, directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sayang
Up the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šavlovna
From the passage via the right edge, crack and wall to the ring. Up the wall over a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Bezděčínská věž
From the west, left of the rib's edge, a short slab and left over the edge into a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malá kvočna
Through the overhanging wall over two large holes to the ring, up the wall into a shallow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Belvedér - jižní stěna
From the ledge under the summit wall left and directly over the smallest overhang into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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