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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7-/7
Pohan
In the left part of the valley wall from the stone up the wall into the holes and right… Fixed belay
7
Smrčinová věž
Up the center of the pillar past a bolt to a balcony. To the right (second bolt) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Muchova věž
Up the wall under the roof directly to the edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sokol (Tyršova skála)
To the right of the memorial plaque, over the overhang (ring) diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
10
Sokolík (Hodánka)
To the left of the Normal route, up an overhanging wall (ring) directly to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Balustráda
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the pillar over two BH to the ledge, slab over another three BH and a smooth pillar … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Homole
From the grassy ledge up the wall with the help of the edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the indistinct pillar over four BH to the ledge, up the center of the slab over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the center of the pillar over three BH to the ledge, slab to the left, from the 4th BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the wall over four ledges (3 BH) and further up the fall line another four BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Herold
Along the ledge to the ring, up the wall to the niche (clock) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
From the lowest point of the pillar up the slab along a short sloping edge, higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Klín
In the left part of the plateau wall over hourglasses and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
From the plateau up the wall along the sloping crack to the left to the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Nádvorní
From the plateau above the 'Wedge' wall, using the edge and along the edge over 1 bolt to… Fixed belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the structured wall under the overhang (piton subsequently placed), via the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Bílá skála
From the valley, up the overhanging wall to the 1st ring. Overhang and roof to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Between the West Route and the West Crack, via the wall over a ring to the fore-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Střední věž - jižní předskalí
From the grassy ledge, via a small pinnacle to the ring and then up the slab directly, or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Černá vdova
Above the boulder, through the middle of the valley wall to the ring of the route "Fat… Fixed belay Danger
9
Vedlejší věž
Up the right valley edge and wall to the ring. Up the arched edge to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž Milana Černého
From Krikava traverse to the ring and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Věž Milana Černého
From the lowest point of the left valley edge over the ring (belay at the beginning of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
King Crimson
Up the wall to the ledge of the right edge of the chimney and to the ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hláska (Clamorna)
In the left part of the plateau wall diagonally left up the wall to the ring and directly. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8
Vlajková věž
To the right of the NW edge in the middle of the W face directly to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Věž Milana Černého
Through the middle of the wall to the ledge, up the wall and the small pillar below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Vlajková věž
Up the overhanging SE edge past 4 rings to a ledge. Diagonally left over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7-/7
Věž Milana Černého
Via the Karamora route to the 1st piton, from there left to the bolt, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2

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