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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
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Malá Rokelská stěna
Along the left valley edge, ring. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malá Rokelská stěna
Right of the route "Kurz nudy" along the wall over 2 rings directly to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Malá Rokelská stěna
Right of the route "Medová spára" via a short chimney into holes and to the 1st ring, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
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Kominíček (Dřeváček)
Along the S edge, ring. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kominíček (Dřeváček)
Left of "Krátká cesta" through a crack, higher up via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kominíček (Dřeváček)
Right of "Krátká cesta" to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malá Rokelská stěna
Through the middle of the valley face via a crack over a ring to its end and right into a… Rock Climbing
1
Kominíček (Dřeváček)
From the plateau side along the gully. Rock Climbing
5
Kominíček (Dřeváček)
Along the SE face to a small crack (ring) and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Malá Rokelská stěna
Through the middle of the NE face over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Kominíček (Dřeváček)
Along the SW face over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Oštěp
From the W edge along shallow notches to the right onto a balcony in the valley wall.… Rock Climbing
6
Hádankář
Through the middle of the NE face (ring) below the overhang. Right into the crack and to… Rock Climbing
9
Oštěp
"N. c." to the 1st ring. Along the valley wall diagonally right over 2 rings to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Oštěp
Along the wall below the rappel (2 rings). Rock Climbing
5
Hádankář
From the S edge diagonally right onto a ledge. From there via overhanging chimneys… Rock Climbing
6-
Hádankář
From the right half of the NW face diagonally left along the wall to the ring. Left and… Rock Climbing
6
Hádankář
From the S edge diagonally right onto a balcony and right into the sloping NE face above… Rock Climbing
7
Hádankář
In the right part of the NW face below the overhang (ring) and over it to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Hádankář
Briefly upwards through the middle of the SE face. Traverse right and along the wall over… Rock Climbing
8
Hádankář
Left of the route "Hádej, hádej hádači" along the wall near the edge over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
8
Oštěp
Along the left plateau edge to the 1st ring and right over a hole (hourglass) to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Doutnavka
Along the upper edge to the boulder. Down the slide into the N. c. (North crack/route). Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Doutnavka
From the NE, from the boulder, traverse into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Štít
In the valley wall, up the niche to the end and along the indistinct edge over two… Rock Climbing
6
Štít
From the right valley edge, traverse left, through a crack, higher right into a hole … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Štít
Along the right plateau edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Temná stěna
Up the overhanging crack (circle) and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Štít
Along the indistinct edge to the ring and diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Štít
From the block at the edge under the overhang diagonally right to the small balcony and… Rock Climbing

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