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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Konev
Directly to the ring and up the wall along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Karnevalová
Through the middle of the valley wall over four rings to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Karnevalová
Up the wall, or the right part of the wall of the adjacent massif, higher by stemming, by… Rock Climbing
6-
Konev
Up the wall over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Konev
Up the wall over the ring to the ledge and along the crack to the 2nd ring. Upwards,… Rock Climbing
6-
Kamzík
From the ring of the "Bardzo Witek" route diagonally left to the ring of the "Temptation"… Rock Climbing
8
Kamzík
Along the crack on the ledges and to the right to the 1st ring. Directly to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
8
Kamzík
From the edge diagonally right and up to the ring. Slightly from the right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kamzík
From the chimney from the ledge directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kamzík
From the chimney, directly up the wall to the ring, up to the gully (sling) and through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jezerní panna
Up the wall to the 1st ring, to the small crack and to the 2nd ring. Right to the edge… Rock Climbing
3
Jezerní panna
Sharp NW edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Jezerní panna
Along the small crack to the ledge at the edge and up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jezerní panna
From the right to the edge and along it over the ring to the ledge. "North Wall" to the… Rock Climbing
8
Jezerní panna
Along the rounded holds to the 1st ring. Along the edge and to the right (piton) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jezerní panna
Along the edge (1st ring) to the 2nd ring and up the wall to the ledge. Rock Climbing
6
Jezerní panna
Through the middle of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Jablkoň
Up the wide crack to the end (loop in the crack on the left) and up the wall from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Janek (Mušle)
Through the right part of the wall directly to the ring, up under the overhang (sling).… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jablkoň
Along the crack to the platform in the corner. Step right into the wall to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing
8
Jablkoň
Along the edge of the small pillar, or via the crack in the corner below the overhang and… Rock Climbing
8
Janek (Mušle)
Over the overhang and along the small chimney, higher up the wall to the ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
9
Janek (Mušle)
Through the left part of the wall directly to the ring, up under the overhang (sling) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Janek (Mušle)
Along the slanted, right-rising ledge to the block (sling), from the right over it (sling… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Japonec
Up the crack to the 1st ring and by standing to the 2nd ring. Up the wall via the 3rd… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Jablkoň
In the left part of the wall to the 1st and 2nd rings and directly to the 1st ring of … Rock Climbing
6
Jablkoň
Up the crack, higher up the edge of the small tower over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Jablkoň
From the 1st ring of the "Baba Yaga" route right along the edge over two rings to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Chýše
Up the broken crack (loop) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Chýše
Through the crack (loop) under the overhang and over the overhang via the ring to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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