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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
From the Southeast edge left to the valley path.
6
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
Into the small cave to the ring and directly to the ring of the “Valley path”. Left to…
7
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
from the west over the overhang to K and by SW edge upwards.
7
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
Directly through the crack and over the overhang to the ring of the “Presto, presto!”…
6-
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
Up the wall over a ring to the fore-summit and optionally to the summit.
1
Sloní hlava
From the north, up the right side to the summit.
6
Ervínova věž
From the valley, over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Ervínova věž
From the south chimney, left to the small crack in the south wall and up it over a ring. Rock Climbing
3
Sloní hlava
Over the bubbles (tufas) to the gully and up it to the summit.
4
Sloní hlava
Along the ledge left to the small crack and up it.
6
Ervínova věž
In the left part of the valley wall, up the pillar to the 1st ring, right to the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ervínova věž
From the west edge, diagonally left over the overhang to the ring, to the ledge on the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sloní hlava
Along the NW rounded edge and right under the overhang.
6
Sloní hlava
Up the wall directly to the ring under the overhang and by standing up to the ring.
7
Sloní hlava
Along the edge directly to the summit.
7-/7
Ervínova věž
Up the crack under the overhang, over it and right to the corner balcony and pillars to…
2
Sloní hlava
5
Sloní hlava
Through the middle of the small wall over the holes.
7
Parohy
Through the middle of the E wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Parohy
From the east onto the fore-summit and along the northeast edge. Rock Climbing
2
Ervínova věž
Via the overhang from the east. Rock Climbing
5
Ervínova věž
From the south, through the chimney under the east edge and up it. Rock Climbing
7
Ervínova věž
From the north, up the wall over a ring to the „Mars Wall“ route. Rock Climbing
5
Parohy
6-
Ervínův hrad
Along the edge (loops) to the ring. From the left into the pillar wall and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ervínův hrad
Along the small crack into the open chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Parohy
From the boulder in the east wall, left to the southeast edge and along it. Rock Climbing
7
Ervínův hrad
Along the SE edge along the crack to the small balcony and higher up the W wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ervínův hrad
Through the corner and up the crack under the overhang and from the right, through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Ervínův hrad
Along the double crack (loops) and a wide crack to the hourglasses. Through the hollow… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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