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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8
Bílá věž
From clipping the piton of the "Southeast Edge" route, go left and along the left edge of… Rock Climbing
6
Bílá věž
In the middle of the S face, through a hole into a crack (sling), diagonally right to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bílá věž
Up a crack in the SW edge to a ring, up the wall diagonally right under a recess, through… Rock Climbing
4+
Bílá věž
Start to the left of Šavle in the S face. Up the center of the wall under an overhang and… Rock Climbing
6-
Bílá věž
Start via the Sun Route to the Southwest Edge ring, cleanly past the piton and freely to… Rock Climbing
7
Bílá věž
To the left of the SW edge, ascend over steps to a ledge below a prominent arched crack… Rock Climbing
3
Smrčinová věž
Up the chimney in the center of the wall. Rock Climbing
2
Vlajková věž
Along the edge, higher up to the right via a chimney. Rock Climbing
8
Smrčinová věž
Like Sandokan's, higher up to the right via the wall past a ring. Rock Climbing
8
Vlajková věž
Up the W face to a ring. Directly up the wall past the ring to a ledge and freely to the… Rock Climbing
4
Vlajková věž
From the SW edge diagonally left into the chimney and through it to the fore-summit, then… Rock Climbing
6-
Vlajková věž
Above the piton, traverse right past a ring into a crack, up it to the fore-rock and by… Rock Climbing
6
Vlajková věž
Up the overhanging wall into a crack and up it (piton) to the fore-rock, then by chimney… Rock Climbing
4-
První věž
From the right through the gully into the corner and along it past the block and crack … Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Vlajková věž
Through the chimney in the middle of the face. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
2
První věž
From the plateaued North side easily by steps to the summit to the chimney's mouth and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hrášek
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit.
6
Hrášek
Through the friable/breakable gully/chimney.
2
Hrášek
3
Hrášek
3
Hrášek
To the block either by wall, or by chimney from W or E and further by wall to the summit.
6-
Pohanská věž
Up the middle of the north wall via the ledge. Rock Climbing
5
Pohanská věž
Along the ledge into the south wall, diagonally right across the balcony to the crack, up… Rock Climbing
6-
Pohanská věž
Under the overhang and to the summit.
Přeskok
Střevíček
From the SE fore-summit to the balcony below the summit and further to the summit.
6-
Střevíček
Through the middle of the face Danger
2
Střevíček
Up the E edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pohanská věž
Up the crack to the shelf and up the W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pohanská věž
Up the cracks and 'sokolík' (small pillar/feature) in the south wall to the crack and via… Rock Climbing
5
Pokémon
From the fore-rock via a corner in the N wall, left to the edge and along it to the…

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