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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7-/7
Prachovská jehla
In the right part of the north face via a crack (first ring), up the wall to the second…
7-/7
Prachovská jehla
From the ring of the “Údolní cesta” (Valley Route) via a crack left to the ring of the…
8-/8
Prachovská jehla
Through the left part of the south face over three rings. Rock Climbing
6-
Prachovská jehla
By overflowing into the west edge and along it to the balcony on the west face. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Prachovská jehla
From the north via a prominent crack to the ring, up the wall and overhanging pillar,… Rock Climbing
6-
Prachovská čapka
From the saddle between Capka and Jehla under the overhang and right to the second ring. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Prachovská jehla
From the right via a grassy ramp into the north face, over five rings to the ring of the… Rock Climbing
6-
Prachovská jehla
Along the southwest edge to the hour-glass, traverse right to the first ring.
7/7+
Hradecká věž
From the east via the chimney to the northern fore-summit, up the diagonal crack in the… Rock Climbing
6-
Prachovská jehla
6
Hradecká věž
From the valley side via a corner crack to the fore-summit. Up the wall over the overhang…
8/8+
Hradecká věž
From the 2nd ring of the “Pietní cesta” to the ring, directly via the crack to the next…
7
Hradecká věž
Along the edge from the west to the fore-summit to the ring and variously upwards on the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hradecká věž
Up the crack over the overhang and directly up the wall (ring) to the summit.
6-
Prachovská jehla
Up the middle of the south face of the massif and directly to the saddle. Rock Climbing
6-
Prachovská jehla
Along the cracks in the East face to the saddle between the towers.
6
Hradecká věž
Up the pillar and crack (ring) to the fore-summit.
6
Prachovská jehla
Up the middle of the south face over three rings to the ledge, left and to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Prachovská jehla
To the right of the South Route over four rings. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hradecká věž
From the valley via a crack over the ring to the summit of the northern fore-summit … Rock Climbing
3
Stromové věže
Rock Climbing
5
Stromové věže
Up the middle of the face and by the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hradecká věž
In the right part of the south face from the left over the overhang and to the right onto… Rock Climbing
6-
Stromové věže
By face over the ring to the summit.
7
Hradecká věž
Up the wall to the ring, diagonally left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Stromové věže
Rock Climbing
6
Hradecká věž
Up the middle of the south face. Rock Climbing
2
Stromové věže
3
Stromové věže
5
Stromové věže
By corner to the window, by crack to the small tower and to the summit.

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