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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Hořejší věžička
Up the left part of the wall, higher up along the sloping crack to the summit.
7
Šlikova vyhlídka
Via the hand crack (ring) widening higher up to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Šlikova vyhlídka
From the North via the right crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Beka
From the East or West via the chimney into the gully and up the South wall to the summit.
3
Beka
3
Hořejší věžička
Left along the Northeast edge to the summit.
7
Hořejší věžička
Up the wall to the summit.
6
Beka
From the block, traverse left around the edge and to the 1st ring. Up and slightly left…
7/7+
Beka
Up the North face along the East edge, via the groove and rib to the ring, then slightly… Rock Climbing
3
Šlikova vyhlídka
Via the small pillar to the left of the staircase to the viewpoint at the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Šlikova vyhlídka
Up the slab to the left of the SE wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Šlikova vyhlídka
Via the overhanging pillar to the right of the South crack to the ledge and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Šlikova vyhlídka
Up the South wall along the right edge (ring) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Šlikova vyhlídka
In the center of the South wall briefly into the ledge and to the ring. Traverse left and… Rock Climbing
6
Šlikova vyhlídka
Up the narrow SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Všeteček
Along the NW ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Všeteček
Via the adventurous route into the tunnel, left around the corner to the balcony of the … Rock Climbing
7
Všeteček
From the SE, from the chimney, via the left wall along the ribs diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
6
Všeteček
Up the wall, higher up via the rib to the left of the "Valley Crack" to its end (ring).… Rock Climbing
3
Všeteček
In the left part of the East face via the right or left crack to the balcony and via the … Rock Climbing
3
Všeteček
From the right side of the upper north face up the wall and a step left around the corner… Rock Climbing
6
Všeteček
Directly up the upper north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Všeteček
Up the center of the north face of the NE pillar to the ring and diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
8
Všeteček
Along the SE ridge (2 rings) to the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Všeteček
In the south valley face via the crack over the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Všeteček
From the SE under the boulder to the balcony, via the left or right short overhanging… Rock Climbing
1
Všeteček
Along the southwest ridge to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pipi
Along the Jí edge. Rock Climbing
4
Pipi
Rock Climbing
6
Pipi
Up the center of the north face along the cracks to the ledge and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing

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