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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
1
Hopsanda
From the South along the small pillar gully. Rock Climbing
2
Děvečka
Rock Climbing
4
Dvojhrbá stěna
Up the crack into the chimney, through it over a wedged boulder below the arch and up the… Rock Climbing
6
Dvojhrbá stěna
From the cave up the wall diagonally right to the rib, up the crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
1
Děvečka
Through a short chimney from the west. Rock Climbing
3
Děvečka
Up the North edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní stěny
Along a grassy ledge to the right and up a corner to a platform, then right and up a… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní stěny
From the ring, traverse right over a loose wall to a small chimney and up it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní stěny
From the ledge through a crack to the balcony, left and up a corner into the cave. Along… Rock Climbing
2
Stěny u jeskyně
15m right of the cave through a hollow along artificial steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hromová plotna
To the right of the center of the wall to the ledge (ring), slightly from the right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hromová plotna
Through the center of the slab over 2 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hromová plotna
In the right part of the slab, up the wall over a ring below the swing. Via the hawk's… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hromová plotna
Completely in the left part of the wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Hromová plotna
In the left part of the slab, up the wall over a ring and directly over the 2nd ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Hromová plotna
Up the wall along the rounded edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Strážce Radoňovic - vrchol s křížem
From the east directly over the overhang. Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce Radoňovic - západní část předskalí
Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Radoňovic - vrchol s křížem
Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Radoňovic - vrchol s křížem
Via the left part of the north face and with a swing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Strážce Radoňovic - západní část předskalí
Through the center of the west face over a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Radoňovic - západní část předskalí
In the left part of the west face, over a bulge into a gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce Radoňovic - západní část předskalí
Rock Climbing
2
Strážce Radoňovic - vrchol s křížem
1
Strážce Radoňovic - vrchol s křížem
From the east along the highest ledge into the south face and through the center via… Rock Climbing
2
Strážce Radoňovic - západní část předskalí
In the right part of the west face, along the crack and up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Radoňovic - jižní část předskalí
From the south, up the gully to its end. Under the overhang and slightly left over a ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Strážce Radoňovic - jižní část předskalí
3
Strážce Radoňovic - jižní část předskalí
5+
Radoňovická stěna
West face: Up a short wall and over the overhang directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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