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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Beran
Along the right edge and left (ring) slightly down into the corner. Through it to the…
2
Beran
Through a crack Rock Climbing Spare Route
?
Beran
Along the edge to the ring and briefly along the sloping slab. Rock Climbing
3
Beran
Through a wide crack. Rock Climbing Spare Route
3
Beran
Rock Climbing
3
Beran
Rock Climbing
6
Okno
Through a crack to the left of "Straight Path" and slightly to the right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Okno
From the east along the cracks directly to the window and N. c. " across the belly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Okno
Under the salty corner to the window and through the overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Okno
From the corner from the north to the shelf (clock) and along the edge to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Okno
From N to the window. Traverse left to the hole, crawl to the S wall and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Okno
From the window on the west side over the overhang (clocks) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Okno
Left east crack to the flake. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Okno
Left SW crack to the window and traverse right to "N. c. " Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Okno
From the window on the east side traverse left to the hole and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Okno
From SW through the crack to the flake. Up under the overhang, traverse right (clocks)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Průchody
SW crack to the pre-summit and as "NE crack" to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Průchody
From the balcony by the corner to the crack, up to the 'clock' and left to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Průchody
Ferruginous wall along the crack, right and up to the ring. Through cracks, higher up a… Rock Climbing
2
Průchody
Along the rising ledge across the SW wall to the saddle below the summit. Short wall to… Rock Climbing
2
Průchody
Through the hollow under the overhanging blocks. Up into the corner, then to the pre… Rock Climbing
1
Průchody
By chimney from SW or NE to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Průchody
From SW to a grassy balcony. Wall to the left (artificial steps) to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing
?
Pacholíček
Rock Climbing
7
Pacholíček
By chimney to the ring, higher into holes and shelves (2nd ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Pacholíček
Left part of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
4
Želva
In the right part of the wall to the ledge and left to the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Želva
Up the wall (bolts) to the ledge to the ring and up the receding wall from the left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Saská věž
Along the northern edge (stacking) to the outcrop, diagonally right and up the NW wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Saská věž
From the NW edge, traverse right to the bolts. Up the crack into the notch, up to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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