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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6+/7-
Akvarel
Along the edge to the ledge and right to the 1st ring. Along the wall below the overhang … Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Akvarel
Along the wall and arête to the ledge, slanted wall left to the 1st ring. Along the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Akvarel
From the chimney, right into the wall and over 2 rings from the left to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Akvarel
From the chimney, left into the wall and from the left over the overhang. Right into the… Rock Climbing
6
Akvarel
Along the wall and arête to the ledge, right to the edge and along it (two rings). Rock Climbing
7/7+
Akvarel
Briefly through the chimney and left to the 1st ring. Along the wall near the edge (two… Rock Climbing
6
Akvarel
In the cornice, traverse right to the edge to the 1st ring. Along the wall and edge to… Rock Climbing
6-
Akvarel
Traverse over the edge and wall over two rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Cvoček
Briefly up the wall, right to the edge and over a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vaškova věž
Along the small crack to the ring, over the small overhang to the sloping ledge and along… Rock Climbing
6
Vaškova věž
Directly up the wall to the 1st and 2nd ring, briefly left and directly up. Rock Climbing
6
Vaškova věž
From the right to the edge and along it over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vaškova věž
From the left to the edge and along it over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vaškova věž
By stepping over from the opposite massif easily to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vaškova věž
Through the narrow chimney. Rock Climbing
6
Vencovy stěny
Up the delicate wall over a ring into the corner and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vencovy stěny
Through the crack, higher left to the edge and over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Sokolí stěna
Right of the route "Nedivte se" along the edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Margareta
Along the "Villa Marista" route to the 1st ring. Briefly up and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokolí stěna
Right of the wide crack up the wall to the 1st ring and directly to the 2nd ring. From… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Margareta
Through the right part of the wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Sokolí stěna
Up the wall left of the wide crack over 2 rings and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sokolí stěna
Along the prominent edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Margareta
Directly up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Margareta
Along the ledge to the right to the edge and along it to the ring. Diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
6
Margareta
Along the edge to the shelf and left to the ring. Up the wall over the 2nd ring directly… Rock Climbing
6
Margareta
In the left part of the wall up to the ledge and up the wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Sokolí stěna
Through the crack in the middle of the wall over the spike n.t.
5+
Sokolí stěna
Along the edge and wall to the ring. Up right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rohačka
Left of the route "E edge" up the wall past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing

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