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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Masiv nad parkovištěm
By a crack in the valley wall (knots) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jednička
By the left third of the NE wall to the hourglass and along the crack to the balcony on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dolmen
Left of the Normal Route up the wall along the edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jednička
Up the middle of the SW wall along the crack (Ring) to the end and by an inclined slab … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Jednička
From SE into a hole, from there traverse to a balcony on the W face and directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kančí věžička
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Brdník
Across the southern edge to the ledges on the west face and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Nero
Through the middle of the north wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Nero
From the west by a corner to the ledge. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Nero
From the left and along the edge over several hourglasses and left by a smooth ascent to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hafánek
From Doga by wall diagonally right to a short crack. Up it and by wall to the ring. From… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hafánek
Start as the route “Dog Weather” and then traverse right to the ring. Ascend to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hafánek
Through the middle of the NE wall via a crack to the ring and the left part of the wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pavián
From the middle of the S wall by a sloping crack to the platform on the W wall, by the W… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Galejník
Through the chimney from SW between the edge and the tower to the grassy balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Brosamen
By the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Galejník
Through the chimney crossing the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Galejník
From the saddle by wall diagonally right into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Muezzin
In the right part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Muezzin
Via the crack in the left part of the wall to the block and by wall diagonally right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Muezzin
From the upper side traverse along the ledge to the right valley edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bazilich
Start on the NE wall along the N edge by a short wall into the "window". Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bazilich
From NE into the crack between the actual pinnacle and the pillar. Along this crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kavka
Up the chimney between Kavka and the edges, step across onto the slab in the NW face and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Jedlička
From the saddle up the wall into the gully, up it to the plateau and from there directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Ježčí věž
By stepping across from the NE side of the massif. Rock Climbing
6
Odpadlík
Up the left part of the northeast face via the hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Odpadlík
By stemming against the edge, step across and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Ježčí věž
Up the wide NE gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Ježčí věž
Up the center of the uphill face (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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