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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Přeskok
Javořík
From the edge. Rock Climbing
1
Javořík
From the SW or NE via the chimney between the tower and Javorová to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zapadlé věže
From the right into the chimney and to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Leguán
Directly to the 1st and 2nd ring. Diagonally right and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Zapadlé věže
Along the edge below the summit, then left and diagonally upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zapadlé věže
Through the right half of the SE face of the S tower over the overhang and then… Rock Climbing
7
Leguán
Along the small pinnacle and crack (sling), diagonally right over the ring into the gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zapadlé věže
Up the blunt overhanging edge of the SW face of the S tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Zapadlé věže
Up the chimney, then over two overhangs into a hollow, right and then a crack. Rock Climbing
4
Zapadlé věže
Up the wall to the right onto the edge and along it (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rasocháč
Up the left NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rasocháč
From the N edge diagonally right upwards over the ledge to the ring. Along the west edge… Rock Climbing
5
Rasocháč
Up the left NE crack for 3m, then difficult right into a crack and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zapadlé věže
From the wedged boulder near the N edge to the right, through the center of the wall to… Rock Climbing
2
Zapadlé věže
Rock Climbing
6
Rasocháč
Up the crack (left, a ring from the "Náhorní cesta") and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rasocháč
Through the center of the left NE face, traverse right and then "N. c.". Rock Climbing
6
Rasocháč
In the SW face, up a shallow chimney into a hole and then a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rasocháč
From the ledge, up the overhanging corner. Rock Climbing
6
Hafušák
From the balcony, below the NE face, go right into the valley face and right to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6
Hafušák
Straight up the edge, below the summit diagonally left. Rock Climbing
6
Rasocháč
Like "Spirálova" to the ledge, up into the hole (sling) and to the ring. Up the wall near… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rasocháč
In the center of the SW face, up the chimney into a hole. Traverse left into a narrow… Rock Climbing
5
Rasocháč
Up the V-edge to a sloping step, right and then a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rasocháč
In the left half of the SE face to the ring. Along the small crack, left and along the S… Rock Climbing
6
Hafušák
Up the center of the small pillar to the ledge and to the right along the wall near the… Rock Climbing
3
Hafušák
From the massif, descend to a small ledge, traverse and climb a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hafušák
Diagonally left up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Hafušák
Left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kráter
Directly through the hole (hourglass) to the ring and through the middle of the wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay

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