Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
3
Kapraď
From the plateau side to the left to the edge and along it to the summit.
6-
Bonsaj
Up the valley wall to the 1st ring. Slab right to the edge and back left to the 2nd ring.…
3
Bonsaj
Via the valley corner over the overhang, by chimney into the 'Old Route' and by it to the…
5
Kapraď
2
WC Věž
From NE via a wide chimney, step over and via a crack to the summit.
5
WC Věž
Přeskok
WC Věž
By jumping from the edge rock
3
Šustecká věž
From E into the N wall. Along the ledge a long traverse to the right to the edge and…
8/8+
Šustecká věž
Up the wall along the left valley edge via three rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Šustecká věž
By jumping from SW to the summit
1
Dušička
Along the eastern edge to the summit.
6
Šustecká věž
Through the middle of the wide chimney between the tower and the massif by stemming to…
3
Šustecká věž
Along the SW edge to the summit.
6
Blatecká věž
Via the pedestal (ring) to the crack and along it to the summit.
6
Blatecká věž
Through an overhanging wide crack into the corner and via a crack to the summit.
2
Blatecká věž
To the left of the E Chimney
7/7+
Maršovská věž
Through the overhanging wall (ring) to the ledge (loop) and from there to the summit.
5
Blatecká věž
6
Blatecká věž
Through the crack under the SE edge to the fore-rock and over the overhang along the edge…
6-
Blatecká věž
Through the middle of the left pillar of the valley wall to the ledge to the ring and…
2
Blatecká věž
3
Blatecká věž
3
Blatecká věž
6
Blatecká věž
Along the edge (ring) to the summit.
6
Blatecká věž
In the left part of the wall, via a crack and up the wall to the right to the ring. To…
5
Maršovská věž
From the northeast to the eastern edge and along it. Rock Climbing
6
Maršovská věž
Up the wall to the E edge
4
Suchá hora
From the window traverse right past the edge. Over the overhang into a depression to the… Rock Climbing
7
Suchá hora
Along the crack to the bolt. Via a crack and left to the 2nd bolt. Up to the ledges … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Suchá hora
From the E edge traverse right along the ledge. Up under the corner and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.

Find a climbing partner