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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
From SW up the chimney between Dívčí and Kavčí into the widening, then falling into the… Rock Climbing
4
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
Through a high tunnel into the SE face. Up the chimney to the ridge and N. c. " to the… Rock Climbing
6
Centrální masiv
Over the overhang to the hourglasses, right to a hand crack, through it into the cave, up… Rock Climbing
9
Centrální masiv
Up the face over the 1st ring directly to the 2nd ring of "Sosák's Fives" and along it to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
To the left of the "Maturita route" through the hole and hourglasses into the hollow and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
To the right of the "Valley chimney" from the slope left to the edge, up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
2
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
From the start of N. c. " along the ledge left across the NE face up to above the valley… Rock Climbing
6-
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
Up the "Rattle wall" to the ring (added later). Diagonally right into a hollow in the… Rock Climbing
6
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
Through the left part of the NE face via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
From the chimney under the overhang to the left under the face. Over the overhang and up… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
From Dívčí Tower. Rock Climbing
6-
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
Up the crack to the ledge and left behind the edge to the ring. Up the face to the left… Rock Climbing
7
Galeon
In the right part of the NW face by diagonal crack to the ring of "Chroust's Route". Rock Climbing
8-/8
Galeon
From the ledge, up the face below the rappel (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Galeon
From the ledge below the SE face over the overhang to the ring and from the left to the… Rock Climbing
6
Galeon
From the upper edge along the diagonal ledge to the crack and by it to the ring. By… Rock Climbing
5
Galeon
From the ledge below the SE face about 2m up. Traverse left to the edge and then to the… Rock Climbing
7
Galeon
*** CAUTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing
6
Galeon
In the left part of the SW face, 3m up the overhang, then slightly right to the edge and… Rock Climbing
5
Galeon
By corner along the crack, partly by chimney into the tunnel. Right to the ring and by… Rock Climbing
6-
Brána
Start from NW into the chimney of the "Chimney Route". Left into the face of the middle… Rock Climbing
8
Galeon
From the right onto the edge and along it over ledges to the plateau below the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Brána
By crack in the W corner over the overhang to the 1st ring. By chimney-like feature to… Rock Climbing
6
Galeon
To the right of the E corner by diagonal crack directly to the ring of the "Corner Route"… Rock Climbing
6
Brána
From the 1st ring of the "Western Chimney" to the left up the face (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing
6
Galeon
Up the face along the edge to the ring and from the right along the edge of the pillar to… Rock Climbing
6
Brána
By crack in the corner into the chimney (hourglass), up the chimney wall briefly and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Galeon
In the left part of the NW face along the double crack into the niche and by chimney to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Galeon
Up the face over the ring to the chimney-like feature and by it to the small balcony on… Rock Climbing
6
Galeon
From the tunnel of the "Corner Route" by an overhanging crack into the saddle between the… Rock Climbing

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