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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
9
Krkavčí skály - hlavní věž
From the ring of the South Broken Crack via chimneys straight and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
9
Krkavčí skály - hlavní věž
From the boulder in the south face by standing and up the wall to the ring and straight… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Krkavčí skály - hlavní věž
Right part of the south face over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Krkavčí skály - hlavní věž
Overhanging crack to the northern ledge and via the north face. Rock Climbing
5
Krkavčí skály - hlavní věž
By opposition between the Main and North Towers to the ledge on the North face and by a… Rock Climbing
5
Krkavčí skály - hlavní věž
From the northwest by a wider crack, slightly overhanging and widening into a chimney,… Rock Climbing
3
Krkavčí skály - hlavní věž
Southern part of the chimney between the west and main tower (ring), traverse left behind… Rock Climbing
8
Bella vista
East face over the ring to the southeast ridge and up it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Krkavčí skály - hlavní věž
From the north or south through the passage into the inner chimney, up it. Over the… Rock Climbing
6
Bella vista
Right part of the north face by a chimney over a ring and to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Bella vista
Along the west face diagonally to the southwest ridge. Rock Climbing
6
Bella vista
Left of the northern crack by a chimney (ring), diagonally left upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Bella vista
From the northeast via an easy wall (by a chimney) to the first ring, then a very… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bella vista
In the right part of the south face to the K further to the top.
6
Bella vista
Up the wall to the right of the South Crack and slightly right (clocks) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Bella vista
Right of the northwest ridge via the ring. Rock Climbing
7
Bella vista
Northern interrupted crack (K) and left to the top.
7
Bella vista
From the ring to the right. Rock Climbing
5
Bella vista
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bella vista
Along the south face left to the southwest ridge and along it. Rock Climbing
5
Bella vista
Along the SW face. Rock Climbing
2
Bella vista
Along the crack or up the face left or right along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kavalír
Through the W chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Křižkovského věžička
From the ring to the right to the crack and up it to the summit.
3
Kavalír
Up the prominent rib in the left part of the S face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Křižkovského věžička
Along a narrow wall alongside the indentation. Rock Climbing
6-
Kavalír
Start at the NW ridge to the ledge and via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Křižkovského věžička
Right of the southwest ridge. Rock Climbing
6
Křižkovského věžička
Up the face right of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Křižkovského věžička
Left of the north crack over the ring. Rock Climbing

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