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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
U Jislovy jeskyně
Along the wall to the right of the corner to the ring. Down left and over the overhang.… Rock Climbing
2
Vajíčko
Up the slightly overhanging plateau wall with a lift to the summit block. Rock Climbing
2
Varhany
Through the crack into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
7
U Jislovy jeskyně
Up the wall into the hole and up the small wall over the ring into the large hole. To the… Rock Climbing
2
Ťuťínek
Through the inner chimney from the NW on artificial steps to the pre-summit rock. Along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tři mušketýři
In the valley wall to the flake and along the edge (ring) to the shelf. Then along the… Rock Climbing
6
Tři mušketýři
Up the wall to the left of the edge to the 1st ring. Up and left through cracks (knots)… Rock Climbing
6
Tři mušketýři
In the side wall traverse from left to right (slings) up to the edge. Through cracks over… Rock Climbing
6
Tři mušketýři
Through the corner (knots) to the ring. Briefly up and left to the shelf to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
4
Tři mušketýři
Through the crack in the corner (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tři mušketýři
Along the cracks in the right part of the wall (slings) to their end and left to the ring… Rock Climbing
7
Tři mušketýři
Through a diagonal crack to the ring. Up the wall and higher up a wide crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Tři mušketýři
Up the wall over the ring to the shelf. Along the right crack (knot) and higher left to… Rock Climbing
5
Tři mušketýři
Through cracks (knots) in the left part of the wall to the ring and left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tři mušketýři
Up the wall with spikes directly to the 2nd ring of the To Life and Death route. Rock Climbing
2
Tři mušketýři
Up the corner chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tři mušketýři
Up the wall to the ring and further along the spikes below the overhang. Left over the… Rock Climbing
6
Tři mušketýři
Through the crack to the right of the corner (knots) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tlustínek
Along the right valley edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Tlustínek
In the left part of the valley wall along the arched notch via holes to the ring. Up and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Torpédo
Lift into the small crack and along it to the ring. Left and along the small crack to the… Rock Climbing
8
Tamburína
In the middle of the wall diagonally right to the ring. Along the flake to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tamburína
Diagonally left along the wall to the edge, or directly to the ledge and left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Tamburína
In the left part of the valley wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tamburína
Directly to the ring (unsecured), up to the shelf and left along the edge over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tamburína
Through a narrow chimney over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tamburína
In the right part of the upper wall from the terrace by wall via steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tamburína
Along the crack (bolt) to the small balcony. Traverse right into the chimney in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tallingrad
By corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Šupináč
Through the middle of the wall by overhang to the ring and by wall with honeycomb… Rock Climbing

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