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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
Přeskok
Oříšek
By a jump/traverse from Popelka and to the summit.
6-
Oříšek
Up the wall to the edge and along it to the small balcony and directly to the summit.
3
Oříšek
By chimney or wall to the left to the ledge between Oříšek and Popelka and along the W …
3
Oříšek
Through the middle of the S (South) face to the ledge and along the W (West) edge to the…
3
Oříšek
Through the corner with a crack and the "Old Route". Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Oříšek
From the north by the left part over the overhang to the crack, through the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Oříšek
SE face, normal route.
7
Popelka
Přeskok
Popelka
From SE from Střevíček from the West balcony to a small balcony on the SE edge and by the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Popelka
6
Popelka
Along the northwest ridge or the south face to the west crack (ring) and southwest ridge. Rock Climbing
6
Popelka
North face over the ring. Rock Climbing
4
Popelka
From the east by chimney to a ledge on the south face and along the southeast ridge. Rock Climbing
6
Popelka
4
Popelka
By the old route to the ledge and through the middle of the south face to the ledge. Rock Climbing
3
Mužík
Up the East wall to the summit.
5
Mužík
Up the wall, higher up the edge to the summit.
2
Buková věž
Up the chimney from the E to the summit.
6
Buková věž
Up the left part of the wall along the SW edge to the ring and higher up the edge to the…
7
Buková věž
From the left along the sloping ledge diagonally right to its end and up the wall via the…
Přeskok
Buková věž
By jumping from the SE fore-rock to the summit.
4
Cipísek
Up the edge to the summit.
6
Cipísek
Up the N wall from the left to the shelf and right up the wall to the summit.
Přeskok
Cipísek
From the SW, by jumping to the summit.
6
Hubertus
Along the edge via two rings to the sub-summit ledge and right to the summit.
6-
Hubertus
From the ring of the "Old Route" right to the 2nd ring of the "Warm Hubert" route and… Rock Climbing
7
Hubertus
Position yourself on the southeast edge and left into the crack. Rock Climbing
6-
Hubertus
Right part of the north face to the ring, onto the bench, left to the northeast edge … Rock Climbing
6-
Hubertus
Via the North Face route to the crack and follow it. Rock Climbing
6-
Hubertus
Directly from the ring. Rock Climbing

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