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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Balvanisko
Along the ramp to the right, up the chimney and by steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Balvanisko
From the ravine in the N wall traverse in a horizontal crack to the right to the ring. To… Rock Climbing
8
Balvanisko
Up the wall below the overhang. By an overhanging pinnacle to the ring, by a horizontal… Rock Climbing
6
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Up the blunt N edge to the ledge (ring), higher up to the right by a left-sloping wall to… Rock Climbing
1
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
From the N, through the bottom of the chimney to the S onto a ledge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Up the chimney to the ledge, then up the wall to the ring from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Up the blunt NE edge to the sloping ledge to the spike, left to the pinnacle and by it to… Rock Climbing
2
Masiv nad silnicí - západní stěna
From the edge of the spur along the ridge to the E edge of the massif. Rock Climbing
3
Balvanisko
Up the chimney from the E to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Up the overhanging pinnacle to the ring. By building/stacking left into the gully,… Rock Climbing
8
Balvanisko
From the ring up the wall from the right to the overhanging crack and through it, higher… Rock Climbing
1
Balvanisko
From the W from the ravine to the boulders and by a short crack (artificial holds) to the… Rock Climbing
3
Balvanisko
Through the bottom of the chimney to the boulders and "St. c." to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
To the pinnacle below the ring from the left from the chimney. Rock Climbing
8
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Left of the chimney in the NW wall, by a crack to the right to the 1st ring, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Up the overhanging wall (hourglass) to the 1st ring, left around the edge and along the… Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv nad silnicí - východní stěna
Via an overhanging, angled crack (loop) in the right part of the E wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Masiv nad silnicí - východní stěna
Start from the chimney between the massifs. Via the crack to the small tower. Rock Climbing
6
Masiv nad silnicí - stěna ze soutěsky
Start on the E edge of the gorge. Up the chimney above the level of the ceiling-like… Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Up the wall into a crack (ring) and through it over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
Rock Climbing
4
Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna
By an overhanging crack to the ledge, along it to the right and by a corner to the ridge. Rock Climbing
7
Masiv nad silnicí - stěna ze soutěsky
From the gorge up the chimney to the boulder (belay) and by a gradually widening crack … Rock Climbing
4
Masiv nad silnicí - východní stěna
Up the wall along the crack to the ledge on the SE edge. Via a system of walls and cracks… Rock Climbing
6
Masiv nad silnicí - jižní stěna
Start from the chimney between the massifs. Traverse left to the small hawk notch and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Masiv nad silnicí - východní stěna
From the forepeak descend through the corner to the S to a ledge and via an overhanging,… Rock Climbing
3
Macháček
Small wall at the NW edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Cigára
Via a prominent corner under the overhang and a double crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Čertovy věžičky
To the higher pinnacle. Rock Climbing
8
Václavíček
Up the S face over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing

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