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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
3
Malá frýdštejnská
Via the gully in the left part of the south face. Rock Climbing
6
Malá frýdštejnská
In the left part of the south face over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Quaker
Along the east edge to the plateau and traverse diagonally left along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Quaker
Up the southeast face along the trough to the plateau and via the small dihedral in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá frýdštejnská
Up the smooth slab of the South Gully to the shelf and to the right of the gully up the… Rock Climbing
6
Malá frýdštejnská
In the left part of the east face, via the gully left behind the edge to the ledge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Malá frýdštejnská
Start in the right part of the east face into the gully (ring), slightly left or directly… Rock Climbing
5
Frýdštejnská věž
From the north, to the right of the Upland Route, up to the ledge and through the middle… Rock Climbing
6
Malá frýdštejnská
To the left of the South Gully, via the slab to the ledge, higher up via the rounded… Rock Climbing
6
Malá frýdštejnská
In the right part of the south face, directly up the rounded wall to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Malá frýdštejnská
From the north, from the northwest edge diagonally left upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Písečná růže (Pšendova věž)
Along the rounded SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sestroňovická věž
From the north, up the wall directly to the plateau and via the 'Náhorní cesta' (Plateau… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bezděčínská věž
From the west, along the edge of the west rib below a vertical steep section (1st ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Bezděčínská věž
On the right edge of the south face, a short smooth wall over a ring to the fore-rock. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sestroňovická věž
From the east, from the slope along the East Ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Sestroňovická věž
From the northeast, through the corner under the head, traverse right to the plateau and… Rock Climbing
7
Frýdštejnská věž
Up the right southeast edge to the detached block, left beyond the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
2+
Bezděčínská věž
On the plateau side to the right to the fore-summit. Via gully, traverse, and steps to…
6+/7-
Bezděčínská věž
Rock Climbing
3
Frýdštejnská věž
Up the wall diagonally right or directly through the chimney into the corner and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Velká zarostlá
Up the overhanging wall to the small chimney and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Sestroňovická věž
Start right of the route 'Hořká za 8' (Bitter for 8). To the end of the notch, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sestroňovická věž
Up the south face to the 1st ring, slightly right over the iron tip to the ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Bezděčínská věž
Up the center of the wall using artificial steps. Rock Climbing
4
Bezděčínská věž
Via the crack left of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Zub
Through the crack in the right part of the wall to the end (knot). Step left into another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zefýr
From the passage diagonally left along the ledges (hourglasses) and with a lift to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zbabělec
Through the center of the NE wall via a shallow corner with falcon-like holds to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zbabělec
From the left, up the wall to the ledge, then right along it and to the 1st ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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