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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Ježura
Through the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hradba
Through the crack in the right part of the NE wall. Rock Climbing
6
Hromosvod
In the left part of the left side wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Hradba
To the left of the "Descent route" through a small crack. Rock Climbing
6
Hradba
From the passage between Hradba (Rampart) and Baron's Tower through the crack over the… Rock Climbing
3
Hradba
From the passage through the left small chimney. Rock Climbing
7
Čudlik
In the right part of the valley wall over the overhang and shallow small chimneys to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Červený trpaslík
Through the small chimney in the middle of the wall and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Červený trpaslík
In the left part of the wall up the wall to the ring and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Červený trpaslík
Through the middle of the wall to the right of the small chimney over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
4
Červený trpaslík
In the right part of the wall into a slanted small chimney and along it traverse right to… Rock Climbing
6
Čertovy schody
Through the middle of the pillar to the ledge and from there briefly to another ledge… Rock Climbing
2
Čertovy schody
Up the chimney in the corner Rock Climbing
6
Čertovy schody
From the left into the pillar and to the ring, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Čertovy schody
From the boulder, step across into the crack and follow it to the ring. From the right… Rock Climbing
3
Čertovy schody
Up a wide crack Rock Climbing
4
Čertovy schody
Briefly by opposition into the ledge and up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Brouček
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Brouček
From SE from the hole and through the gully under the overhang. Slightly to the right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Brouček
Northeast edge, description missing Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Brouček
Through the middle of the leeward wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Brouček
From the leeward side, traverse 2 m to the right into the NW wall and along it over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Brouček
Through the crack in the middle of the valley wall to the ledge, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Brouček
Through the left part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Brouček
Up the east wall over the niche (protection) and on the right side to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Adéla
In the left part of the wall, up the wall directly to the ring. Into the ledge and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Adéla
From the gorge, via the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Adéla
From the gorge, via the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Májová věž
From the terrace, along the left valley edge over the ring to the gallery of the 'Russian… Rock Climbing
8
Májová věž
Completely from the valley, along the right edge to the terrace, then along the… Rock Climbing

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