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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
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Dračí věž
Up the wall to the right of the "Last Bell" route, 2 rings. Rock Climbing
9
Dračí věž
Up the sharp edge (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. With aid to the notch, through it and along… Rock Climbing
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Dračí zub
From the 1st ring of the "Catapult" route straight, ring. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvanáct apoštolů
Short crack to the clock and to the sloping shelf. Slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dvanáct apoštolů
Up the wall to the clock, right up, higher left to the holes (loop), up and right (clock)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvanáct apoštolů
Through the crack into the hole and left up the wall (ring). Rock Climbing
6
Dvanáct apoštolů
*** WARNING *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
3
Zefýr
Through the chimney between the tower and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Dvanáct apoštolů
Traverse left to the edge and over the ring to the lowest summit of "Stupňovitá cesta"… Rock Climbing
8
Dvanáct apoštolů
From the left over the hole to the ring, right and up the smooth wall over the steps to… Rock Climbing
5
Kuragin
Rock Climbing
5
Dvanáct apoštolů
From the NE along the corner crack to the lowest summit, extending to the NW. Along the… Rock Climbing
6
Kuragin
Overhang into the gully and to the ring. Up and left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dvanáct apoštolů
Over the overhang to the ring and along the crack to the 2nd ring. Over the steps to the… Rock Climbing
6
Kuragin
By the corner (loops). Rock Climbing
3
Kuragin
Rock Climbing
2
Kuragin
To the right of the pine tree, up a wide crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kuragin
From the South, up an overhanging crack past a ring and slightly left by a corner to the… Rock Climbing
3
Dvanáct apoštolů
From the wide ledge in the NE face along the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kuragin
Rock Climbing
6
Kuragin
Along the edge from the boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kuragin
From the south, from the pine tree, left up the wall to the Ant Wars ring and left by the… Rock Climbing
6-
Dvanáct apoštolů
Broken crack. Rock Climbing
6
Dvanáct apoštolů
In the left part of the NE face up into a hollow and traverse right into a small cave.… Rock Climbing
6-
Dvanáct apoštolů
In the right part of the valley fore-summit, up the crack with an overhanging start (ring… Rock Climbing
8
Dvanáct apoštolů
Gully and wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kulisák
From the passage, diagonally right up the wall to the point, to the flake and NC. Rock Climbing
3
Kulisák
Through a narrow chimney to the flake and NC. Rock Climbing
4
Kulisák
From the passage, traverse into the valley wall to the ring and up to the flake (large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
11
Železník
Up the wall to the right of the edge over the rings (likely typo for 'dvě kruhy' - two… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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