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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Banán
Right edge from the traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Banán
Up the wall using holes to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Autista
Small wall to the flake. To the right along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Stolička
Up the wall to the right of the corner directly to the ledge and a short West crack to…
6
Stolička
Through the chimney to the balcony and up the Northeast edge to the summit.
4
Stolička
Up the center of the South wall to the ledge, traverse left to the Southwest edge and…
3
Stolička
From the north via a short chimney to the balcony into the Old Path and along it to the…
6
Stolička
Along the edge over the ring to the summit
6-
Zub
Hand crack to the platform and corner to the ledge to the ring. From the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Stolička
From the east via the plateau corner to the balcony and to the summit.
6
Zub
From the chimney left to the arête and to the pinnacle. Via the 'pilířek' over two rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zub
Via the Old Route to the balcony. Further along the northeast arête via overhanging … Rock Climbing
5
Zub
Overhang from the boulder into the north face and along the fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zub
Via the southwest arête, higher up the south face. Rock Climbing
6-
Zub
From the northwest via a stem/lieback and up the northwest arête (ring). Rock Climbing
6
Zub
Up the west face over a ring to the balcony, right and up the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Zub
From the northeast arête into the east face, left around the arête and up the south face. Rock Climbing
5
Zub
Along the indistinct southeast arête, higher up the south face. Rock Climbing
4
Lebka
From the west, traverse left to the 'sokolík' in the north face, up it and the face. Rock Climbing
6
Lebka
Rock Climbing
2
Křeslo
From the inner balcony via the west arête, higher via the southwest arête. Rock Climbing
4
Lebka
Diagonally up the east face to the northeast arête and along it. Rock Climbing
5
Lebka
Overhang from the fore-rock into the south face and upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Křeslo
To the left of the south crack, via the face ('hodiny') to the balcony and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Křeslo
Along the斜crack in the south face over an overhang to the balcony and along the southwest… Rock Climbing
4
Křeslo
Via the east chimney to a small balcony, along the southeast arête higher up the… Rock Climbing
7
Křeslo
Right part of the South face over a ring to the summit
7
Křeslo
Directly up the face over a ring to the ledge and to the summit
3
Křeslo
In the southeast face diagonally upwards into the south face to the balcony and via the… Rock Climbing
6
Křeslo
From the ledge, via the left part of the north face, higher via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing

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