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Climbing at Citadela

13 routes
5+–8+/9- grades

Part of 08. Ostroh Východního rohu, Citadela has 13 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Textile belay.

Rules

Nature protection: tower closed from February 23rd to June 30th due to nesting.

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

Google Waze
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7-/7
Citadela
To the left of the start of the Left Valley Chimney route on Ústecká věž, at the edge … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Citadela
From the terrace to the left of the "Tlamolep" route, climb the wall over 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Citadela
From the SE, slightly via the corner to the pillar and to the right onto the terrace … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Citadela
Via the "Left Valley Chimney" to the Ústecká věž almost to the end, then up the crack in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +2
6-
Citadela
To the right of the route "Božena ložená", climb the small wall over 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Citadela
Start via the "Pájkův nedodělek" route, then further right up the wall from the chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Citadela
To the right of the corner between Barokní stěna (Baroque Wall) and Citadel up the middle… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Citadela
Together with the Náblíže route to the 2nd bolt hanger and diagonally left (2 bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Citadela
To the right of the SE pillar, climb the wall (2 BH) and slightly to the right (3rd BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Citadela
From the right onto the edge and along it (3 BH) to the Náblížka rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Citadela
To the left of the “Kámen mudrců” (Philosopher's Stone) route, up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Citadela
From the starting block of the "Kámen mudrců" (Philosopher's Stone) route to the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Citadela
From the SE slightly up the corner onto the pillar. Up the middle of the wall via 7 bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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