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Part of Za pískovnou, Démon has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5 to 7/7+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

6+/7-
Démon
From the Ondatra plateau, by traverse into the NW wall of Demon (1st ring), by crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Démon
Right of the west corner by wall, small chimney and crack to the 1st ring. By crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Démon
Left of the NW edge by crack (aid climbing) to the ring. By crack and chimney to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Démon
Via the Under Abseil route to the ledge to the second abseil ring. By gully and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Démon
Via the Long Chimney route to Botanicka, to the ledge to the second abseil ring. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
Přeskok
Démon
From the summit of Botanicka, descend three meters by chimney, jump to the platform and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Démon
From the Giant Hall (from NE) by inner chimney between Demon and Botanicka thirty meters… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Démon
From the Giant Corridor by crack in the NW wall (1st ring) under the overhang. By gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Démon
In the left part of the Giant Corridor by opposition (1st ring) higher up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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