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Part of Drábské světničky, Drábský masív has 48 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4+ to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

Permanent ban: - Climbing is permanently prohibited due to monument protection.

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

6+/7-
Drábský masív
Along the slab to the ring, right and over the overhang to the ledge. Straight (2nd ring)…
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Slightly from the right over the crack to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Left along the edge over the ring to the Nervous Breakdown ring.
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Through the center of the wall directly to the ring. Along the wall to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Drábský masív
Through the hollow in the corner about 8 m up, right over the edge, up the wall and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Drábský masív
Directly up the wall to the zigzag crack and up it.
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Through the left part of the wall over two rings.
9/9+
Drábský masív
Up the wall (1st and 2nd ring) to the 3rd ring and left through the hole to the edge and…
7-/7
Drábský masív
In the lower part of the gorge between Drábský Pillar and Dráb, up the SE wall directly… Rock Climbing
6-
Drábský masív
Left of the edge above the entrance hut over the overhang to the edge and along it to the…
5
Drábský masív
From the terrace, traverse left behind the edge to the crack and up it over the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Drábský masív
Up the wall along the edge over a drilled piton and two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
?
Drábský masív
Follow "Baťův test" route to the ring. Right along the ledge into the chimney and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Drábský masív
Up the chimney, traverse left and up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Drábský masív
Up the wall to the birch tree and up to the ring. First straight, later right. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Drábský masív
From the summit of Partyzán, through the center of the wall over the overhang to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Drábský masív
From the solo ring from Partyzán directly to the ring, slightly right to the crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Via the Ecce Homo route and further along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Drábský masív
Along the blunt edge to the 1st ring, traverse right and up to the 2nd ring. Straight up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Drábský masív
From the 2nd ring, up the friable wall to the 3rd ring, up the wall and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Approach via the "Director's Route" and left to the 1st ring. Left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Drábský masív
Along the edge (ring).
4+
Drábský masív
From the fore-rock, by overhang and positioning into the wall, through the crack along… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Along the crack to the ring, traverse left into another crack and up it to the summit.
6
Drábský masív
Along the left edge of the NE wall up under the overhang, traverse right (hour-glass) and…
6
Drábský masív
Up the wall through the hole to the ring. (By building) or up the wall from the right to…
5+
Drábský masív
Along the edge to the ledge, left along it and up the wall to the ring. Right behind the…
6
Drábský masív
Along the wall (ring) to the Ecce Homo ring and slightly left to the crack.
7/7+
Drábský masív
Through the center of the wall directly to the ring. Diagonally left into the hole, 2 m…
7+/8-
Drábský masív
Along the edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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