Part of Ostrov - 3 - jižní část, Dvojitá hlava has 14 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 6. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.
Rules
OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
5
Všední hrana
Via chimney at the NE edge to the ledge to the ring. Via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Přeskok
From the abseil point of the Last Tower, jump to the step and further along the Old Route. Rock Climbing
5+
Rampelníkův sen
Right in the upland (south) face directly to the crack and along it under the overhang.… Rock Climbing
6
Fakír
Left in the upland (south) face via chimney and face to the ring. Via the gully to the… Rock Climbing
5
VŠEDNÍ HRANA - var. Horký den
Through the center of the south face to the ring, over the ring of the route "Everyday… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ptakopysk
In the SW edge via the crack over the hourglass and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Údolní cesta
Between the towers, via cracks to the large ledge below the summit, where the route joins… Rock Climbing
4-
Levá údolní cesta
In the left part of the northern valley face, via cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
V cesta
Along the SE edge around the hole to the ledge. Right and along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Povinná dávka
In the right part of the valley face, through the hole into the crack and higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
St.c. - nástupová var
From the west, via chimney to the large balcony, higher up like the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
2+
St c
From the gully, traverse left around the west edge to the ledge. Left to the crack, up… Rock Climbing