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Climbing at Dvorská

20 routes
5+–10-/10 grades

Part of Himálaj, Dvorská has 20 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 10-/10. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Danger, Route in shadow.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

9/9+
Dvorská
Overhang over the hourglasses and two rings to the hourglasses, then right to the ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Dvorská
Right of Sicilian Defense, up the wall over 5 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Dvorská
Crack from the south side of the tower to the 1st Q, higher to the ring of route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Dvorská
Middle of the NE wall (ring) to the 1st ring of the Devil's Edge route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Dvorská
Via Belzebub's variant to the 2nd ring, directly up the wall to the 2nd ring of Devil's… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
From the high pre-rock, descend via the chimney to a ledge, then right along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Dvorská
Right of "The Neverending Story" along a blunt edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Dvorská
Left part of the NW wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Dvorská
Along the left valley edge, up the overhanging wall with 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
Right of the west corner via the corner and wall (4 rings - first ring added) into a hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
In the middle of the valley (NW) wall, via a crack in the corner to a small balcony to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
From the 4th ring, up the wall left, higher right (5th ring) along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvorská
At the west edge via the crack and wall left to a small balcony. Aid climbing, right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Dvorská
At the south edge with substantial aid climbing and the wall left to the 1st ring. Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Dvorská
Center of the west wall via the 1st and 2nd ring into the route "Pastorale", then without… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dvorská
Variant of Flegel's route behind the small cave (aid climbing) and the wall (added ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Dvorská
From the ring, traverse the wall left and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dvorská
Variant of Flegel's route into the small cave and a curved crack to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvorská
From the ring of Flegel's route, traverse the wall right past the edge to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvorská
From the high pre-rock, via the right corner crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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