Frýdštejn below the castle of the same name in the northern part of Bohemian Paradise offers more than 160 routes on 20 rocks – for example Masiv nad silnicí (south and north face), Balvanisko, Bob, Strážce pokladu and Hradní duch. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9/9+.
Part of Northern areas, Frýdštejn has 164 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9/9+. Explore its 20 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger.
Rules
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature conservation documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Area Bohemian Paradise
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Masiv nad silnicí - jižní stěna Balvanisko Masiv nad silnicí - severní stěna Bob Strážce pokladu Hradní duch Truhla Posel Bílá paní Masiv nad silnicí - východní stěna Hradní masív Tučňák Bobek Popravčí kámen Tlustá Berta Strážce vesnice Masiv nad silnicí - stěna ze soutěsky Triangl Masiv nad silnicí - západní stěna Tuctová stěna
7
Útěk před katem
From the 1st ring right beyond the edge to a ledge and along it diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
3
Koutová cesta
From the NW by a corner crack into the chimney, through it to the fore-rock and by a… Rock Climbing
7
Hrana kata Mydláře
From the left onto the N edge and along it over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Dáma promine
Up the cracks in the left part of the NW face over two rings to a ledge (summit book) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Prázdná duše
Up the crack to the end at the ring, then up the slab to the edge and up the wall right… Rock Climbing Danger
6
Vzpomínka na Honzu Šimona
From the right onto the W edge and along it to a ledge, above it the 1st ring. Falconets… Rock Climbing
6
Zpátky v černém
Up a small corner in the NE face to a ledge and along an overhanging crack to the summit … Rock Climbing
7
Hororová scénka
Up the corner crack into the chimney, through it to the fore-rock, then by stepping over… Rock Climbing Danger
?
Vzpomínka na Honzu Šimona - Var
To the ledge below the 1st ring from the corner, up the wall diagonally right. Rock Climbing
?
Měsíční svit - úniková var
Traverse under the ring to the right onto the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Měsíční SVit
From the NE by a small corner to a ledge, along it to the right into the NW face and by a… Rock Climbing
8
Straší ti ve věži?
From the fore-rock at the NW face by a falconet (hourglass) into a crack and through it … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Západní cesta
Via the "April Edge" route for two meters, right into the hole and by a crack to the ring… Rock Climbing
6
Aprílová hrana
By a falconet (loop) and along the smooth N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Údolní cesta
In the right part of the SW face by a falconet, left by an overhang and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Danger
3
Normální cesta
Up the left part of the NE face along the crack, higher up from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Severní cesta
Up the corner to a ledge and then via the crack in the W face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Taneční variace
In the left part of the SE face, difficult falconets to the ring and left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pochod kanonýrů
Up the crack in the valley wall to a ledge, then up the sloping falconets to the ring and… Rock Climbing
6-
Přesná muška
Through the crack near the SE edge via a ring (additionally placed) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay