Part of 10. Ostroh Gilotiny, Gargamel has 6 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 6. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Overhang.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
5+
Modrá je lepší
From SE over the overhang into the gully, through it and up the sloping wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
5+
Zlý čaroděj
Right of the Smurf World route, up the wall to the ledge (K above it) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Jižní cesta
From S along the edge to the foresummit, descend and right up the sloping wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kdo chce kam...
From the block on the N side diagonally left via an overhanging wall to the 1st BH. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Šmoulí svět
From W to a overgrown ledge, diagonally left up the wall along the depression (K), higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Taťka Šmoula
Left of the overhang of the South Route, up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay