Part of 10. Ostroh Gilotiny, Gilotina has 21 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Fixed belay, Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.
Rules
Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps authority OP CHKO Kokořínsko1b
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
7-/7
Náměstí nebeského míru
Through the corner and cracks in the North face over the 1st K into the crack and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Space-Eggs
Right of the route "Square of Heavenly Peace" up the wall to the fore-rock and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Pavel´s Moonwalk
Right from the start of the "Moon Face" route via a corner and left to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Amores perros
Right of the route "Square of Heavenly Peace" up the wall over 4 BH under the overhang to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Měsíční krajinou
Right in the valley wall via a corner, higher up a crack to its end to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Gilotina
In the fall line of a mighty corner, separating two prominent edges, along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Hrdelní trest
In the fall line of the sharp edge of the "Guillotine" directly over 2 K to the 1st K of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Měsíční tvář
As a path through the Moon Landscape, traverse the crack and left along the edge over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Veličenstvo kat
In the left part of the valley wall, to the left of the start of the Guillotine route,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Konečný verdikt
In the S wall to the right of the large corner via 2 BH to the balcony (3rd BH on the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Okamžik pravdy
Along the left valley edge up the wall and through the crack to the balcony at the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Červenozelená střela
As "Guillotine" to the flake and left through the gully to the 1st K. Up the wall via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Krvavá čepel
Via the "Guillotine" route 20m to the ledge and directly over K, BH and K to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Major Vlna
4m to the right of "Heads Up" along the crack (K, BH) to the overhang (2nd K). Through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Varianta cesty Major Vlna
From the 2nd K of the Major Vlna route directly over the overhang and further along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Svatební cesta do Jiljí
Through a prominent corner to the right of the route "Major Wave" to the 1st K. Higher… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Lety mimo
Up the wall to the left of the "Final Verdict" route via 2 BH below the overhang (K),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Hlavu na špalek!
To the left of the "Swedish Steel" route, through the corner and up the wall via 5 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Hlavu vzhůru
Along the SE edge or directly on the edge via 5 K to a large platform and up the wall via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Švédská ocel
In the S wall from the left along the ledge to the 1st K. Up the wall via the 2nd K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Švédská ocel - Přímá varianta
Up the wall (K) directly to the 1st K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2