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Climbing at Gilotina - malá věž

10 routes
5–8-/8 grades

Part of Město, Gilotina - malá věž has 10 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5 to 8-/8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Textile belay, Fixed belay, Rock Climbing, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

5+
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts in the corner on the plateau side. Up the wall and crack to the window,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Gilotina - malá věž
Follow the Old Route to the 'clocks', then traverse right on the ledge and follow a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Gilotina - malá věž
From the valley (south), left of the route "With a Cross After the Funeral," via small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Gilotina - malá věž
From the internal space, up the wall and by opposition through the constriction into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the summit of "Koš na hlavy" (Basket for Heads), by abseil and to the right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts on the eastern side of the tower complex. Up the chimney to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts left of the 'Eastern Chimney' route. From the block, by building, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the 2nd ring, go right via the corner crack to the sub-peak. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6-
Gilotina - malá věž
From the SE side, up the crack and chimney (1st ring) to the ledge of the Žabí route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the internal space of the tower complex, through the chimney and window to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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