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Part of Hřensko, Hlavička has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 8/8+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing prohibited from 1.2. to 30.6. OP Document: NPČŠ_OOP_mountaineering 2020 and a list of permitted objects, OP body Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Hlavička
Right in the valley wall by a crack over overhangs, a chimney, higher up by the Old Way… Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavička
From the path left initially by an inclined corner between the tower and the massif … Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hlavička
From the massif, descend to a sloping plateau. Jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Hlavička
In the middle of the valley wall by a crack to a ring. By an overhanging crack (sokolík)… Rock Climbing
3
Hlavička
Like the Old Route, descend, then via the plateau chimney to the NE opening, traverse… Rock Climbing
3
Hlavička
From the highest point in the massif, descend via a hawk-like gully, first S, then W for… Rock Climbing
2+
Hlavička
From the NE in the massif, descend to the ledge, traverse 3 meters left, by jump (1st) or… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavička
Like the Old Route to the chimney between the tower and the massif. Up the face to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Hlavička
From the massif in the direction of Falcon Castle, descend to a ledge, right and briefly… Rock Climbing

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