Central Hruboskalsko is the heart of climbing in Bohemian Paradise – the rock town around Hrubá Skála castle, with sandstone towers and massifs in the Dračí skály, Kapelník, Maják, Přední Skalák, Zámecká rokle and Čertova ruka sectors. climbing.place lists almost 3,500 routes here.
The climbing is traditional on free-standing towers, with most routes in the middle grades, roughly VI–VIIb on the Saxon scale. Marked trails lead to the rocks straight from Hrubá Skála.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Hruboskalsko centre has 3462 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
3
Normální cesta
From the crack to the ledge. Along it into the corner and up the crack. Rock Climbing
7
Kosa
Via a crack from the bivouac in the S face to the bolt. Up into an oblique wide crack and… Rock Climbing
6
Dalekohledová
Via the route "Castle Confession" to a ledge, then traverse left along it to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing
3
Jen vzpomínka
From the N through a passage to the valley wall and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Hamburger párty
From the SW edge along a crack to the bolt. Traverse to the W edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Svoboda
Through the chimney, higher up via a crack to the right of the route "Hliněná cesta" to… Rock Climbing
1
Normální cesta
From the west to the fore-summit, left and below a wedged boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mluvící erb
From the boulder at the southern edge of the fore-summit/pinnacle via a short corner and… Rock Climbing
1
Normální cesta - varianta 1
As "Normal Route" to the fore-summit, then along the left small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hliněná cesta
From the NW via a small crack to a ledge, over an overhang into a crack, along it into a… Rock Climbing
2
Normální cesta - varianta 2
Via the "Normal Route" to the fore-summit, then along the right small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
10
Užiješ-li šnitlik, pojedeš jak rychlik
From the right edge of the SE face left into a hole and up the overhanging wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Těžkej fantaz
Along gullies/flutings over a bolt into a hole, left behind the edge to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
7
Chlumovo rozjímání nad půllitrem
Up the middle of the SW face over 3 ledges and up the wall to the bolt. Briefly up, right… Rock Climbing
6
Písčitá cesta
In the left half of the NE face along oblique notches to the edge, then along it to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Skalní datel
Via a crack to the fore-summit, up the right edge (bolt) into a hole and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Poslední vzpomínka
In the S face via an oblique crack to a rock block (1st bolt). Via a crack to a ledge,… Rock Climbing
6-
Studentská pečeť
From the left edge right to a ledge, via a crack and up the wall (2 bolts) to the balcony… Rock Climbing
5
Severní spára
Via a crack in the right half of the NE face over 2 bulges to the pre-summit bench. "N. C… Rock Climbing
5
Podvečerní cesta
From the fore-summit to "N. C." (Normal Route) up the middle of the wall over an overhang… Rock Climbing
6
Lámání pečetí
Up the right part of the SE face over a bolt to the pre-summit bench. From there left… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Je to krátký
Up the wall over a bolt to the pre-summit ledge and right as "N. C." to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Zelená hrana
*** ATTENTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the bolts may be of questionable… Rock Climbing
6
Varianta Nástupu
From the prominent hourglass in the fall line of the 1st bolt via delicate holes. Rock Climbing
6-
V pravé poledne
Via a gully/fluting to the ledge (hourglass), traverse right to the small balcony/ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Prokletý buk
In the SW face of the W tower, same as "Via top holds" into a hole, upwards into another… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Posmrtná ztuhlost
Right of the "Showcase Crack" using the edge over the ring and diagonally left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing